STILL PHYSICAL – YOUR SUCCESS STORY OF 2020

In general, we can define six groups: natural capsules, anti-odor and wellbeing fabrics, fabrics with thermo-regulating properties and bio-based nylons, bio-based finishes, as well as sustainable dyeing processes and fabric innovations that redefine function.The range extends from plant fibers such as hemp, SeaCell (oyster shell) or bamboo to natural fibers such as wool.

The addition of natural substances such as argan oil, castor oil, algae, cinnamon or sunflower seeds are ideal in keeping with the desire for natural skin care. Coconut, linseed or metal-free Environ offer anti-odor benefits. These natural additives support blood circulation, boost the immune system and regulate body temperature without the use of any chemical additives. Bio-based finishes – such as, for example, by means of a finishing with MiDori Biowick – provide for good moisture transport and quick drying. Body moisture is absorbed but not stored, and instead transported to the outside of the fabric where it evaporates quickly. This keeps the body pleasantly dry without cooling down, even during physical exertion. Metal or silver is no longer applied.

On top of all this, manufacturers surprise with a wide selection of bio-nylons, some recycled, some even biodegradable. We see the application of microplastics being totally dispensed with, and the same with elastane, which hinders the recycling process. Natural dyeing processes and Dope Dye are increasingly becoming the focus of attention. Also noticeable is the desire for materials with a fashionable look & feel, but without sacrificing any function, an approach reflected by Trenchant Textiles, combining functional features with a fashionable design.

Soft, ultra-light and in fantastic shades – the latest materials for baselayers impress with their versatile function, and all on a natural basis. Natural fibers such as bamboo, SeaCell, organic cotton and hemp in particular form the largest group. Closely followed by wool, either processed in its pure form, or also applied in blends with nylon. Manufacturers are taking more and more care in facilitating the return of the material back into the cycle, a valid reason for abandoning the use of elastane. In keeping with the Focus Topic, the feel-good character is enhanced with the aid of natural additives such as algae, cinnamon or linseed. These substances keep the body temperature constant during sporting activity and provide for a pleasant cooling effect. A fabric from Evertex Fabrinology Ltd. Is particularly worth mentioning here, as it offers natural mosquito protection by means of its dense weave. Bio-based nylons – either recycled or as a drirelease®/naia blend (made from cellulose derived from eucalyptus and pine forest), offer high breathability. In the color segment, mélange shades are making a comeback. Broken-up and slightly diffuse color blends are ideal for the new summer look.

The midlayer, as the middle layer between the baselayer and outer layer of clothing (hard or soft shell), should also insulate against the cold in summer. The entire layering system is based on the so-called “onion principle”, i.e. many layers result in a dry and warm body feeling depending on the warmth/cold sensation and the material mix. Here, too, natural fibers take the lead, with bamboo and hemp being applied, as well as many great wool combinations. KBT wool, recycled wool with Lyocell, wool with Tencel, wool with eco-viscose. Added to this are the many great bio-based nylons, followed by Nilits (nylon 6.6) polyamide-polyester and other exciting blends such as spacer materials made of 30% polyester and 70% Tencel or fleece cords with hemp and 70% Tencel, SeaWool, many with non-brushed qualities. Manufacturers have their sights set on fashionable tech fleeces, but also old-school surfer styles and midlayers in pullover style get a look in. In terms of color, red tones dominate in all variants. The attempts of manufacturers to enormously reduce the release of micro-plastics during the washing process or avoid their use altogether are noticeable in general. Nylon has already proven to degrade after 300 days at 40% in aerobic conditions, according to the D6691 standard, with 50% less micro-plastic up to zero percent micro-plastic in the fiber. This is ensured, among others, by new brushing processes on the back of the fabric. 

The softshell category ranges from highly technical and various casual variants to extremely fashionable models.The materials boast great performance while still being extremely lightweight, ideal prerequisites for running and biking.The chemical fibers are often recycled, even biodegradable or are available as an bio-based variant. The use of elastane or stretch-PU ensures for more freedom of movement. Those on the lookout for natural fibers will find various blends of organic cotton, cotton or wool, as well as extremely thin knitwear (10 DENI), bonded.

In view of the upcoming ban on fluorocarbons in 2025, many brands and fiber manufacturers are already looking for a viable new membrane alternative. The focus is on a sufficiently high water column that does not need to forfeit any functional quality despite frequent washing, and on a pleasant feel. Great constructions yet again show how to add function to fabric without any chemical treatment. Trans-Textil, for example, uses a fiber-based 3D structure made of their own specially developed high-tech polyurethane for its Topaz Companion membrane. The microporous structure in the nano range unites technical performance and comfort with an ecological claim. BenQ also impresses with a microporous membrane that does not lose the perfomance during the washing process. Furthermore, there is the far less harmful use of polypropylene – polypropylene has the advantage over other synthetics that in its basic form it does not omit any substances harmful to health or the environment during its use and decomposition and no or very little problematic residues remain when it is incinerated. The widely used synthetic material also contains no questionable softening agents in most applications. Another great variant is the nanoporous membrane made of polyolefin, which contains only carbon and hydrogen. It is free of PTFE and PFC (polytetrafluoroethylene and perfluorocarbons) and does not require any solvents in its production. These are complimented with recycled polyester, polyester natural fiber blends and recycled nylon.

In 2-layer constructions, the membrane is bonded to the outer material. For protective purposes, a loosely attached inner lining is fitted on the inside. This group also presents a surprising number of bio-based material variants, in part as mono-components to facilitate circularity, some recycled. Followed by a large number of bio-based nylon articles and robust polyester variants with good abrasion values. In addition to 10/10 (water column: 10.000 mm, breathability: 10.000 g/m²/24h) and 20/20, a 30/30 membrane variant appears for the first time. All membranes are hydrophilic, optionally on a polyester, PU or bio-based and standard nylon basis. Technical innovation is on show with the bio-based nylon membrane with castor oil basis and, as previously mentioned, the 30/30 membrane variant, as the latest Taiwanese Bluesign membrane. The question here: Is this the initial response to the upcoming PFC ban? 

The variants of the seasoned winter models are ultra-light, breathable and yet insulating in summer. They also come in an impressive wide range of colors and designs. The trend in summer is moving away from the shiny towards a more slick look, with matt and even mélange color variations. Windbreakers and Batwing styles with a retro 80s look are particularly trendy in summer 2023. Athletic mountaineering enthusiasts and trail runners are increasingly turning to lightweight variants. Here too, bio-based nylons set the tone, followed by a large selection of recycled polyester variants, such as super-mechanical stretch polyester or fabrics with extremely high tear resistance. 

The trend towards fabrics of natural origin is clearly evident here. Check patterns are less in demand for the coming summer in the outdoor market segment. They are being replaced by small ripstops in 90s look and new, modern structures. In addition, more and more importance is also being placed on the technical look in the area of fashion. The range extends from new linen looks to zonal shirt fabrics or recycled nylon with hemp quality to dry structures with elastane content, ideally suited for light summery shirts. Sturdy jerseys surprise in new qualities and with extreme stiffness in a casual look. 

In the pants segment, many fabrics impress with a special look & feel and are pleasant to the touch. Natural fibers, hemp in particular, are the group leaders here, not to mention the use of Ecovero. The environmentally conscientious viscose is made from certified renewable wood sources. Lightly grained, it provides a stylish look. Also noticeable is the large proportion of recyclable materials up to and including mono fibers. The meta-trend towards workwear and cargo are becoming more and more prevalent in the world of sportswear. Two trends are generally recognizable here – the parachute style on the one hand and the rougher look on the other, which can be applied ideally with hemp due to its rough, often course surface. 

The active style category for the summer 2023 season evokes various emotions and captivates with an extraordinary color palette. The colors range from dark, deep blue shades to muted, light pastel variants enhanced with grey. A standout is an organic cotton/hemp blend that delights as a summer knit in a trendy sage-mint shade. The highlight: In the processing to a new knit, all fabric waste was recycled. These are in good company with beautiful natural knits in a trendy mélange look in various grammages.

Natural blends of Tencel, organic cotton and hemp offer great possibilities for lightweight summer knitwear models. Corduroy fabrics, sometimes in combination with wool, are heavy to the touch yet boast an extremely lightweight look. Recycled polyester is combined with organic cotton, creating a versatile and fashionable look. In general, brands will find a wide selection of natural fibers for light summer jerseys and summery mid-season models, followed by PU mackintosh fabrics, slender jerseys with structure or classy casual natural fabrics. 

Durability, abrasion protection, tear-resistance, elasticity, breathability, wearing comfort – workwear fabrics must boast high technical performance values. Workwear rethought: A lot of the materials in summer 2023 convince with their lightness and soft, smooth feel. Furthermore, they impress with a fashionable look. Great new combinations of materials can be found among them. Dyneema, the world’s most tear-resistant yarn, is now being processed with Econyl. The range includes a fiber made of 100% polypropylene with a Macintosh patent and the cellulose fiber Avacar, a great alternative to cotton, super light and offering a sensational feel. Organic cotton without synthetic materials prevents static charging while bio-based PU coatings are ideal for bottom bases for backpacks because of their stability. Another striking feature is the latest spectrum of colorful, summery shades, which lend themselves well as a fashion statement.