Nothing to Waste - Closing the Loop: A cradle to cradle textile that is recycled consists of 100 per cent ecologically pure materials and substances that can be reused. Its recyclability, alongside fashionable or functional aspects, is fully taken into account during the development process. More and more manufacturers are turning to the use of recycled fibres in the development of fabrics, which can be reprocessed into recycled fibres. In this category, bio-based and non-bio-based mono-component fabrics (no fibre blends) – which are mostly recycled – as well as natural fibres have been selected. A total of four groups could be defined: Nylons, polyester fibres, wool and cotton. The purer and cleaner the original fabric, the easier it is to recycle in the end. The manufacturers present a whole range of materials such as: PET bottles in yarns, recyclable materials and blends, garments that decompose in a cradle-to-cradle approach, and more. The use of mono-component fabrics for 3-layer jackets from mostly recycled materials is a new and innovative approach. 

In order to check the recyclability of a fabric or the DIN standards (DIN EN ISO 14021), the PERFORMANCE DAYS Jury advises to inquire and clarify these specific points directly with the respective supplier.

There is an increasing dominance in this category by the group of natural fibres, consisting mainly of wool, wool blends, organic wool jersey, hemp, bamboo or coconut shell. The soft viscose fibre made of bamboo pulp, often combined with argon oil, provides a wonderfully soft and pleasant feeling on the skin. The variations here are extremely diverse. A distinction is made between wool, partly combined with Tencel, which provides for a soft, light feel. We have also seen the recent addition of the use of Smartcel, an innovative Tencel Lyocell high-tech fibre, which is produced on the basis of natural cellulose and the trace element zinc, which is a guarantee for revitalising effects. Seacell is a fibre obtained from seaweed. It contains trace elements including minerals and vitamins, which also boast positive effects on the human body, which are then released when moisturised in smaller amounts with a beneficial effect. In contrast to Seaqual – where for production plastic waste is removed from the sea and processed into a new, environmentally friendly polyester fibre. More and more manufacturers are applying the processing of milk proteins from non-food milk. Bio-based polyamide is another important category. This includes the likes of recycled polyamide, fluffy jacquards, pure recycled polyester, Polartec Delta, Tencel and polyester fabric constructions. Naia spun fibre is a newcomer to this segment. It is soft, quick-drying and reduces pilling. It interweaves well with other environmentally friendly materials such as Lyocell, Modal or recycled polyester.

Midlayers are primarily intended to provide warmth when layering garments.This category also displays an extremely large number of natural materials in Winter 22/23. The variety on offer is extraordinary. The focus is on newer constructions to generate heat, yet at the same time, manufacturers are attempting to reduce or completely avoid the use of micro-plastics in the development process. More focus is being placed on natural fibres such as micro-modal, cotton, hemp, organic cotton, Tencel, merino wool or fabrics made of soya. Hemp is increasingly replacing the use of cotton. The much lower water and energy consumption levels alone, compared to cotton or polyester, make hemp a better alternative. Furthermore, hemp is in no need of any chemicals, making it a fully natural eco-fibre. On top of all this, there are high-loft fleeces made of 100 per cent polyester, super technical knitwear with Seaquel fibre components, Polartec Highloft, Overdied Grip Velour, biodegradable polyester up to elaborate polyester 3D constructions. Tencel articles continue to feature prominently; the same goes for new air-chamber variants. All fleece fabrics, e.g. made of Tencel or hemp, are napped on the inside, but without any use of micro-plastic. There is a trend towards Sherpa fabric, which is replacing high-loft fleece qualities, being the more environmentally friendly option due to the low amount of shedding micro-plastic. 

Warming, windproof and water-repellent jackets worn outdoors as an outer layer during sports or leisure activities typify the Outer Midlayer category. One trend that is clearly visible:the classic softshell is increasingly being replaced by the Midlayer, which provides outdoor protection against wind, rain and the cold. Polyamide and polyester fibres remain dominant even in winter 22/23. The chemical fibres are often recycled, are even biodegradable or are used in a bio-variant. The use of elastane or stretch PU provides for more freedom of movement. Anyone on the lookout for natural fibres will find various blends of organic cotton, cotton or wool.

The membrane is glued to the outer material and inner lining to form a single unit. This creates the ultimate durable solution, lighter than 2-layer jackets and more robust than their 2.5-layer counterparts. 3-layer jackets are especially recommended when travelling often with a heavy backpack, in rocky terrain and when exposed frequently to adverse weather conditions. The functional 3-layer fabrics can no longer refrain from the use of natural fibres and recycled variants. The natural fibres convince overall with great values, especially in terms of breathability and waterproofness, providing 100 per cent recycled cotton with a PFC-free water-repellent coating, along with a 40 per cent linen, organic cotton blend. In the area of special membranes, XPore is often used, as is the bio-based membrane Dupont Susterra, biodegradable polyamide or recycled polyester with graphite membrane. The group of lightweights made of recycled nylon, and partly of recycled road waste, are wafer-thin yet robust. Ripstop, lightweight 60-gram mini-ripstop, ultra technical Drytex, ultra lightweight hard shells, recycled polyamide and polyester lightweights complete this category. Among the mono components, a multi-coloured jacquard and two Oxford structures in polyester and Nylon are a pleasant surprise.

In 2-layer constructions, the membrane is glued to the upper material and a loosely attached lining is applied on the inside for protective purposes. 2-layer jackets are usually somewhat heavier and not quite as robust.

Here you can find once again wonderful new structures, from classic extremely durable variants to new 3D structures that enable exciting design formats. The fabrics guarantee high breathability and water column, are light and impress with great stretch properties. Nylons are meanwhile available in numerous variants, mostly recycled, with some of the yarn derived from old fishing nets. BASF presents an organic variant that replaces harmful chemicals with vegetable oil from certified, environmentally friendly sources. Econyl is another option: Instead of using crude oil as in conventional nylon production, Econyl production uses waste materials such as production waste from the nylon manufacturing process, fabric remnants and carpets and fishing nets from the oceans. Cotton is blended with polyester or with Eco Rayon. Polyester fibres come with a recycled PET membrane, with stretch or innovative technologies such as special polymerisation spinning technologies.

The lighter variants of the winter models are ultra-light, breathable and heat-insulating. They also impress with their wide range of appealing colours and designs.

The trend here is towards the typical nylon qualities of many Korean fibre manufacturers, which are produced using the air-washed process. It is also astonishing that lightweights can now be processed from Econyl and other recycled fibres without losing any of their lightness. Almost all fibres – from nylon, Econyl, polyamide to polyester – are over 90 per cent recycled, and often dyed with vegetable variants or dyed in a dope dyed process.

The trend towards fabrics of natural origin is also evident here. Among others still fresh in use are manila- and banana hemp, which is extracted from the abaca plant of the banana family (Musaceae). In the category of tights for running, fitness or yoga, the trend is moving away from the classic shiny tapewear articles to circular knitted articles with a matt look. Alongside soft, unique Tencel fabrics in robust quality, the many innovations in recycled variants are surprising, such as recycled Double Knit or newly recycled Coolmax. The blends of Eco Vero are also very exciting, with fibres made from certified renewable wood sources in combination with Seaqual and Tencel from controlled cultivation.

Natural high-density cloth, thick winter fabrics, natural jerseys and digital print looks prevail in the lifestyle category. The colours are reminiscent of autumn, ranging from curry to cognac and mustard. The variety is great: robust, easy-grip linen and organic cotton blends, winter twills made of 100 per cent recycled cotton, beautiful linen- and Tencel weaves, Oxford fabrics, batiked naturally dyed denim fabrics and recycled polyester are ideal for thick yet elegant winter coats and jackets. In addition, there are classic winter fabrics such as loden made of 20 per cent recycled polyamide and 80 per cent wool, lumberjack fleece made of recycled wool, Eco Rayon and polyamide blends or a polyamide/lycra mix. The natural jerseys range from recycled polyester and abakar, hemp und cotton blends to double-face knits. 

Durability, abrasion protection, tear resistance, elasticity, breathability, wearing comfort – workwear materials need to perform high technical values. In addition, the appropriate colour management is of particular importance for the workwear sector – bright, dazzling, neon signal tones dominate. Many fibres are also recycled in the workwear sector, or are of natural origin. In general, cotton fibres that are available in recycled or organic variants are gaining in importance. PFC coatings provide for additional protection and tear resistance. Newcomers in this segment are 100 per cent recycled Cordura and recycled biodegradable PET. Vectran spun from liquid crystal polymers is often used to provide cut resistance. This fibre is five times stronger than steel, making it ideal for use in workwear.