JURY´s PICK “THE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE OF NYLON”

It’s been 80 years since nylon conquered the market as the first synthetic fiber. But unfortunately, we are aware meanwhile that this extremely lightweight, durable, water-repellent fabric is not produced in a particularly sustainable manner. Nevertheless – there are and will be many, environmentally friendly alternatives available today and in the future where neither performance nor appearance is sacrificed. Among others, the focus here is onorganic nylons, Econyl, nylons made of sugar or on a castor oil basis (some even with Tencel) as well as biodegradable nylons. Firstly, plastics have their origin in fossil raw materials, and secondly, polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic and other synthetic textile fibers contribute to the microplastic problem. Dupont is well aware of this, resulting in the US enterprise developing a corn-based textile fiber called Sorona. Scientists and businesses are currently working intensively to make synthetic fibers more environmentally friendly. There are now companies that have developed bio-based polyamide which can be partially processed into fibers. Bio-based implies that the starting material is of natural origin, such as corn or sugar. This year’s Focus Topic takes an in-depth look into which alternatives manufacturers have in store for us and what the possibilities for today and in the future offer to improve nylon’s negative reputation. These range from cross-industrial streaming to recycled alternatives and to bio-based solutions. The future holds combinations of biodegradable nylon with spandex, recycled marine waste from used buoys, a range of plant-based bio-nylons, nylon fibers made from recycled car tires and recycled computer chips. Castor oil or coconut shells often serve as a basis to enhance the antibacterial effect without the use of ions. The milk protein casein makes fabrics softer to the touch. BASF presents a great new variant – nylon 6.0, which is fully recyclable.

There is not a lot of innovation for the coming F/W 23/24 season in terms of baselayers. Nevertheless: the new fabrics continue to convince with great eco-friendly alternatives. Open 3D-structures with 90s construction are particularly trending. With the launch of Optimer, Dri-Release has developed a fabric that combines the wearing comfort of cotton with the functions of synthetic fibers while also providing a new, hip look. Dri-release dries four times faster than cotton, has a soft, natural feel and is pilling resistant and colorfast. Alpes showcases a unique flat knit made from a combination of recycled acrylic and a blend of merino wool. Penn excels with a blend of organic cotton and roica, an elastane fiber produced by Asahi Kasei at Chempark Dormagen that can be fully degraded without releasing any pollutants. Utenos impresses with its 100 percent merino wool with extreme breathability and fabulous soft feel. Natural fibers such as hemp, bamboo or organic cotton are supplemented with plant fibers from banana or pineapple leaves. The use of zinc or ginger lends the fibers an antistatic effect, blocks UV rays and provides an antibacterial effect. Super-technical alternatives for sports such as biking and running fit like a second skin and offer optimal body regulation qualities. The category is rounded off by blends of polyester and Tencel. 

Loft is making a major comeback in the midlayer category. Manufacturers are spoiled for choice for Winter 23/24 – the variety ranges from teddy loft to wool loft to structured loft. The puffy construction of Polartec High Loft creates air chambers in which body heat is stored in fluffy fibers. The open mesh fabric wicks away excess heat during great exertion for enhanced breathability. The fabric is both lightweight and quick drying. Because of its solution-dyed dyeing method – color pigments are added to yarns during the fiber production process, making them indelible – the lightfast fibers are protected against UV rays and yellowing from age. Pile in cuddly teddy look makes a comeback in winter.

Classic Softshells appear in winter with a new look. With its Softshell e3 made of recycled polyester, Schoeller has come up with the ideal material for cool, trendy ski jet pants a la Kitzbühel or Frauenschuh. Kingwhale presents 100 percent recycled polyester with reduced microplastic emissions when washed. Sherpa fleeces, often also made from recycled polyester, are still in trend. They are water-repellent, yet breathable and impress with an extremely soft feel.

In view of the fact that 2025 will see the banning of fluorocarbons, many brands and manufacturers are consequently already looking for a new membrane alternative that makes sense. The focus is on a sufficiently high water column which does not have to suffer function loss even with frequent washing, as well as its pleasant feel. Excellent constructions demonstrate how function can be applied to fabric without chemical treatment. At Performance Days in 2020, Sympatex had already presented a Fibre2Fibre functional article as a 2-layer laminate with a single-variety PES outer fabric made from 100 percent used textiles. And now we see the same fiber experts come up with STX Banff Spring CO, produced in the same “Closing the loop” process from chemically recycled fabric scraps and other leftover materials. The ASF Group presents a 20d pre-consumer nylon ripstop, ideally suitable for outdoor-, hiking- or biking jackets. BenQ showcases for the first time a 2.5 to 3-layer fabric made from 100 percent recycled polypropylene. The result is a highly technical fabric that is not only environmentally friendly, but also breathable and water repellent. The P&E Textile Company has managed for the first time to combine 100 percent repreve, a fabric made from recycled PET bottles, with a biogenic TPU lamination made from bio-based ink derived from corn or wheat.

Manufacturer innovations in the 2-layer category managed to scoop a total of seven jury likes, proving itself to the jury as the most exciting segment with great innovations that exceeded all previous standards. These included, among others, a new fabric from Sympatex that is 100 percent in keeping with the theme of textile recycling, or a plant-based membrane as sustainable ripstop made from recycled polyester that refrains from the use of petroleum in processing. Furthermore, there are naturally dyed plant-based fabrics, blends of organic cotton and nylon, recycled polyester knit, bio-based polyurethane, recycled fibers from PET bottles to old fishing nets. The combination with castor oil provides for an antibacterial effect. 

The jury also found little innovation in the lightweight segment. The trend continues towards the ultra-light, breathable, yet thermally insulating.  Fiber manufacturers are increasingly striving for lighter variants, which is hardly technically feasible. However, the new materials do appear in bold color tones and patterns, including stripes, crushed structures and finishes. The choice ranges from downproof fabrics, bio-based ultra-light materials (7d recycled), and cotton and wool textures to various natural fibers.

Reminiscent of summer, the trend here towards fabrics of natural origin is clearly apparent. The selection on show includes 100 percent organic cotton, hemp, new plant fibers from pineapple and banana or hemp blended with Cordura for the casual canvas look. Sturdy jerseys surprise in new qualities and with extreme stiffness in a casual look. Natural dyeing techniques will gain in importance in the future. Plant-based dyes include e.g. chlorophyll, indigo, bluewood, saffron, turmeric, alizarin and madder. Long before synthetic dyes were developed, natural dyes enabled people to dye clothing and other textiles. Indigo, probably the best-known natural dye, has been used for over 6,000 years.

In the pants segment, various fabrics impress with their special look & feel and pleasant feel. Woven Tencel materials are setting new standards in the pants segment. Brookwood has Sequoia on show, a plant-based fabric with a touch of elastane made from a blend of various Tencel fibers. The combination of hemp with corduroy is particularly soft, yet extremely robust. Recycled graphene is blended with grapheme stretch, with woven materials such as organic cotton, hemp or viscose setting the tone. 

The Lifestyle Category will be continued in the F/W 23/24 season under the name “Fashion meets Function”. The reason being, that fabrics from the Activewear segment impressively demonstrate how sports fashion fits to the current zeitgeist. While the materials follow current trends, they always take into account functional properties that support performance. Winter highlights include recycled cashmere, bio-based nylon fleeces, recycled fibers derived from textile waste, eco-friendly variants of spacers, plant fibers derived from pineapple or banana leaves or printed jacquard fleeces. A particular eye-catching highlight are the colored reflectors that provide better visibility and a fashionable touch.

Durability, abrasion protection, tear-resistance, elasticity, breathability, wearer comfort – workwear fabrics are reliant on high technical performance. Workwear, a rethinking: many materials impress in Winter 23/24 with great robustness without sacrificing any lightness or soft, smooth feel. New recycled options, including repeatedly recycled nylon or recycled polyester, point to new directions in this segment. A particular highlight is a new knit that is flame-resistant due to its yarn.

For the F/W 23/24 season, the Shoes & Bags segment will be included for the first time as a new category in the Forum. The focus here is on robust fabrics that can be applied in the bag and shoe sector. Stotz introduces a fabric made from 100 percent recycled cotton, GRS certified. The material manages to be extremely water repellent without the use of PFC. By means of the application of Ventile fabrics, which are spun so that the tightly woven fibers create a finished fabric, the material stands up to the harshest weather conditions. Most significantly, Ventile now offers a selection of certified organic, recycled and PFC-free options. Taiwan Axroma Technical Textile also boasts a fabric without PFC coating. Thanks to so-called “Mackintosh” technology, the fabric requires no additional lamination and treatment while remaining water repellent. 100 percent polypropylene, meanwhile derived from industrial waste, is extremely lightweight and is considered single-component. Merryson is also showcasing 100 percent recycled nylon, which can ultimately be returned to the textile cycle.

For the F/W 23/24 season, the Shoes & Bags segment will be included for the first time as a new category in the Forum. The focus here is on robust fabrics that can be applied in the bag and shoe sector. Stotz introduces a fabric made from 100 percent recycled cotton, GRS certified. The material manages to be extremely water repellent without the use of PFC. By means of the application of Ventile fabrics, which are spun so that the tightly woven fibers create a finished fabric, the material stands up to the harshest weather conditions. Most significantly, Ventile now offers a selection of certified organic, recycled and PFC-free options. Taiwan Axroma Technical Textile also boasts a fabric without PFC coating. Thanks to so-called “Mackintosh” technology, the fabric requires no additional lamination and treatment while remaining water repellent. 100 percent polypropylene, meanwhile derived from industrial waste, is extremely lightweight and is considered single-component. Merryson is also showcasing 100 percent recycled nylon, which can ultimately be returned to the textile cycle.