Certifications: Which Ones Matter?
PERFORMANCE DAYS serves as a platform to connect, share insights and collaborate on sustainable and performance-oriented textiles and innovations. By bringing together stakeholders, we enable open discussions around materials, trends and solutions. Together we are fostering a collaborative environment that helps drive advancements in areas like circularity, resource efficiency, and product innovation. For the next fair, we want to emphasize the importance of certifications to ensure transparency and accountability in sustainable practices. This fair we want to ask:
Which certifications are required or recommended by PERFORMANCE DAYS to meet the current product sustainability standards in the industry?
Certificatons and Standards
About this guide:
As the organizer of PERFORMANCE DAYS, we are pleased to present a comprehensive guide outlining both mandatory and optional sustainability standards for products. This guide is the result of extensive research, including a thorough analysis of practices adopted by retailers, department stores, and wholesalers. It provides detailed information on the specific data required, the submission process, and how qualifying information will be presented to attendees.
By collaborating closely with our exhibitors, we aim to foster transparency and support our visitors in making well-informed purchasing decisions. Together, we’re enhancing the experience for all participants by promoting clarity and sustainability in the industry. We are dedicated to delivering a customer experience that reflects our commitment to maximum transparency and thorough information.
We want to:
Support brands, suppliers, and fabric managers make smarter, more informed decisions!
Stay ahead of changing EU regulations by taking a proactive approach to compliance!
Make sustainability information clear, simple, and accessible for everyone!
Strengthen industry connections through meaningful collaboration!
Key takeaways
Importance of Sustainability Certifications
Certifications promote transparency and ensure ethical and environmental compliance in the textile industry.
Regulatory
Developments
EU policies demand stricter sustainability standards, with the Digital Product Passport driving detailed product transparency.
Recycling
Challenges
Limited recycling rates and competition for rPET require innovations in closed-loop and bio-based feedstocks.
Transparency
and Trust
Verified certifications, third-party audits, and advanced tools combat greenwashing while fostering consumer trust and confidence.
Innovative
Tools
AI, Tools and LCA+ enhance supply chain traceability and lifecycle sustainability assessments.
Support for
Small Suppliers
Brands should support smaller suppliers with resources to achieve certifications and foster inclusivity.
Table of Content
- Sustainability Regulations
- Textile Sustainability Challenges
- Certifications Overview
- Frameworks and Tools
- Advanced Approaches
- Certification Process
- Case Studies
- Stakeholder Checklists
European Union Green Deal:
Takes bold steps to regulate the textile industry
As regulations become more stringent, failure to comply can result in legal penalties, reputational damage, and lost market opportunities. By proactively aligning with these regulations, manufacturers and brands can demonstrate their commitment to sustainability and differentiate themselves in a competitive market.
The EU Green Deal's first regulations were set by the "European Climate Law" in July 2021, establishing a binding goal for EU climate neutrality by 2050 and an interim target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by at least 55% by 2030, up from the previous 40% target. This framework aligns EU policies across sectors to support climate and environmental goals.
EU Digital Product Passport
Expected to become law soon, this initiative will require companies to disclose detailed sustainability information on products, including material origins, durability, and recyclability. This "passport" will enhance transparency, helping consumers make informed choices and encouraging brands to adopt responsible sourcing and production practices. The passport is intended to cover a wide range of products, with textiles likely to be among the first sectors impacted.
EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)
Anticipated by 2025, the ESPR will set minimum eco-design standards, establishing requirements for product durability, recyclability, and restrictions on hazardous substances. This legislation will drive innovation in product design, encouraging brands to create environmentally friendly and economically sustainable products that meet new circularity standards.
EU Circular Economy Action Plan
Aimed at promoting product longevity, waste reduction, and recyclability, this action plan places special emphasis on high-impact sectors like textiles. The Green Claims Directive within this plan mandates that brands provide verified, specific environmental claims to prevent misleading "greenwashing" and promote science-backed sustainability credentials. This plan supports the shift toward a circular economy and a more resource-efficient textile sector.
EU Green Claim Directive
The Green Claims Directive marks a significant advancement in EU sustainability regulations, requiring brands to substantiate all environmental claims with verified, specific data. This directive is designed to combat greenwashing by ensuring that claims are scientifically credible, pushing brands to rely on recognized third-party certifications.
- Increased accountability: Under this directive, brands must now provide rigorous scientific evidence to support environmental claims, often necessitating certification by accredited third-party bodies. This ensures that claims are credible and substantiated, offering consumers reliable and transparent information about product sustainability.
- Transparency and consumer protection: The directive mandates that environmental claims be presented in clear, understandable terms, making it easier for consumers to verify the sustainability of products. This fosters a more transparent marketplace, reducing the prevalence of misleading claims and increasing consumer trust in the accuracy of brand promises.
- Higher compliance costs: Adhering to the Green Claims Directive will likely increase costs for brands, as they will need to invest in third-party certifications, audits, and comprehensive sustainability assessments. This added financial burden will affect both brands and their supply chains, reinforcing the importance of credible, science-based certifications in the marketplace.
- Reputation and legal risks: Failure to comply with the directive could result in significant legal penalties and damage to a brand’s reputation. Conversely, full compliance with the directive enhances brand credibility, building trust and loyalty among eco-conscious consumers who prioritize sustainability and transparency.
- Pressure for standardization: The directive may place pressure on certifying bodies and industry stakeholders to adopt more stringent, standardized criteria to meet its requirements. This shift will likely drive greater consistency across sustainability certifications, making it easier for consumers to understand and compare environmental claims across brands and ultimately creating a more cohesive sustainability landscape in the market.
Tackling Textile Sustainability:
Key challenges in recycling, feedstock and regulation
The textile industry faces mounting sustainability challenges, particularly with polyester production. As the EU Green Deal encourages recycled polyester (rPET) from waste plastic bottles, competition for this feedstock has intensified, with beverage packaging and textiles vying for limited rPET supplies. With less than 1% of textiles currently being recycled, the scarcity of rPET underscores the need for advanced textile-specific recycling methods.
To address this, the industry must innovate in two key areas: closed-loop recycling where textile waste is recycled back into high-quality fibers and alternative feedstocks, such as bio-based materials. Adopting these solutions will help brands not only meet Green Deal regulations but also remain competitive in a market that increasingly values sustainable and responsibly sourced products.
If you want to learn about solutions beyond bottles, visit one of our previous focus topics and click here.
A closer look at current and upcoming regulations
Checklist
Preparing your business for upcoming regulations
- Perform due diligence: Map your supply chain, identify high-risk areas, and implement risk management strategies to address issues like forced labor.
- Build supply chain traceability: Implement systems to track and increase transparency, focusing on high-risk regions and suppliers.
- Engage suppliers: Collaborate with partners to assess compliance, implement mitigating measures, and include forced labor prohibitions in contracts.
- Collaborate with stakeholders: Work with industry peers and local entities to tackle forced labor collectively.
- Plan for responsible disengagement: If risks can’t be mitigated, exit supply chains ethically to minimize harm and protect your reputation.
What is happening across the supply chain?
Sustainability efforts are increasingly focused on different stages of the supply chain, often organized into Tiers 1, 2, 3 and 4 . These tiers represent the sequential phases of production, from raw material sourcing to final product assembly, each with unique environmental and ethical challenges. By understanding sustainability in the context of these tiers, brands can target specific areas such as responsible material sourcing ( =Tier 3), clean manufacturing practices for yarns and fabrics (=Tier 2), and ethical labor standards in product assembly (=Tier 1). This tiered approach provides a framework for implementing comprehensive, stage-specific sustainability measures throughout the supply chain.
Four Tier Supply Chain Model. Source: WRI and Aii (2021)
Provided by reports.fashionforgood.com
Here you will find an overview of the most relevant certifications within the textile industry,
divided into the areas:
LCA and environmental impact:
Measuring sustainability across the lifecycle
What is the European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Framework?
The European Union’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) framework offers a comprehensive method for assessing a product’s environmental impacts throughout its entire lifecycle. By standardizing sustainability assessments, PEF is set to significantly influence supply chain decisions, consumer behavior, and corporate sustainability efforts. It aligns with the EU Green Deal, which targets carbon neutrality by 2050 and substantial emissions reductions by 2030, reinforcing the EU’s commitment to achieving a sustainable and low-carbon economy. PEF expands on Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), a proven method for evaluating environmental impacts such as greenhouse gas emissions, water use, and resource depletion. PEF provides a more comprehensive approach by assessing a product’s full environmental footprint from start to finish, promoting more sustainable practices across industries.
Enhancing Consistency with Product Category Rules (PCRs)
PEF strengthens LCA with Product Category Rules (PCRs), sector-specific guidelines that ensure consistent, relevant, and accurate sustainability assessments across industries. These rules enhance PEF’s reliability for businesses and policymakers, making it a standardized tool for evaluating sustainability in various sectors.
Focus on Carbon and Climate Goals
A key feature of PEF is its focus on carbon-specific tools, such as the Carbon Environmental Footprint (CEF) and Carbon Footprint (CCF). These tools measure greenhouse gas emissions and help businesses align with global climate goals, including the Paris Agreement, by tracking and reducing their carbon impact.
Implementation Challenges
Despite its potential, PEF is still evolving, with many industries awaiting finalized PCRs, which limits its applicability. Small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) often face challenges with PEF’s complexity and resource demands. Additionally, inconsistent LCA data presents a barrier, and ensuring alignment with non-EU standards is critical for the framework’s global adoption.
Quantifying Carbon Impact:
How the Higg Index drives
emissions transparency in fashion
Purpose
The Higg Index, developed by Cascale (formerly Sustainable Apparel Coalition), is a set of tools to help companies assess and improve sustainability performance across the apparel and textile supply chain. It aims to promote transparency, drive sustainability, and allow brands to evaluate their environmental, social, and labor impacts in a standardized way.
Coverage
The Higg Index evaluates key sustainability areas at various stages of production, including water usage, carbon emissions, worker conditions, and chemical safety. It provides companies with insights to assess, compare, and improve their practices while communicating sustainability efforts more transparently to consumers.
Challenges
The Higg Index has some limitations, including a reliance on self-reporting, which can lead to bias and inconsistencies. It may also struggle to capture complex supply chains, especially in regions with limited data or for smaller suppliers. The tool may not fully address emerging sustainability issues like circularity or broader social impacts, and its industry-wide application can be affected by varying regional standards.
 |
The Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) evaluates the environmental impact of raw materials and processing methods during the yarn and fabric stages, quantifying factors like water use, energy, and emissions to guide sustainable material choices. |
|
The Higg Facility Environmental Module (Higg FEM) tracks the environmental performance of manufacturing facilities, focusing on waste management, chemical use, and energy efficiency. Its extension, the Verified Facility Environmental Module (VFEM), adds third-party verification to enhance data credibility and transparency. |
|
The Higg Facility Social & Labor Module (Higg FSLM) assesses social and labor conditions in manufacturing facilities, addressing areas such as fair wages, worker safety, and health standards. |
|
The Higg Product Module (Higg PM) is a lifecycle assessment tool that measures the environmental impact of products across their lifecycle, covering carbon footprint, water use, and chemical impacts. It enables brands to compare materials and processes, reduce their footprint, and enhance transparency with consumers. |
|
The Higg Brand and Retail Module (BRM) assesses the environmental and social impacts of brand and retail operations, focusing on transportation, packaging, supply chains, and employee well-being to support sustainability goals. |
Driving Sustainability:
Textile Exchange's standards and global impact
Textile Exchange is a global non-profit advancing sustainability in the textile industry by promoting the adoption of sustainable materials and practices. It develops and manages standards to ensure responsible sourcing, use of recycled materials, and adherence to animal welfare principles. Collaborating with brands, manufacturers, and farmers, it fosters transparency and accountability across global supply chains.
Certifications: Known for the Global Recycled Standard, Recycled Claim Standard, Responsible Wool Standard, Responsible Down Standard, Responsible Mohair Standard, and Organic Content Standard, covering organic, recycled, and ethically sourced materials.
Services: Offers support for implementing standards, training, and industry data through tools. Textile Exchange also hosts the annual Textile Sustainability Conference, connecting industry leaders on sustainability across global supply chains.
WHATS NEXT?
Textile Exchange introduces the Materials Matter Standard:
Textile Exchange is driving sustainability in the textile industry with its new Materials Matter Standard. This comprehensive standard integrates climate, nature, and social objectives into the production and processing of raw materials, encompassing animal fibers, recycled materials, and potentially future inclusions like cashmere and MMCF. It utilizes the Content Claim Standard to track certified materials and aims to streamline consumer communication through unified claims and labeling.
The pilot version of the standard was introduced in mid-2024, with the final version set for release by mid-2025 and mandatory implementation by mid-2026. The Materials Matter Standard will provide a voluntary sustainability certification, harmonizing existing standards and incorporating climate and nature goals into certification processes. It includes both practice-based criteria and outcome-based indicators to measure compliance, empowering brands and retailers to confidently communicate about certified materials.
To further address sustainability challenges, the Materials Matter Standard provides a consistent metric for comparing fabric types, featuring an updated Life Cycle Assessment (LCA+). It aims to enhance transparency, improve recycling rates, and offer reliable sustainability assessments. Unveiled at the 2024 Textile Exchange Conference, the standard incorporates regenerative practices, land use, human rights, and animal welfare, with a traceability system (Trackit) and the Content Claim Standard ensuring transparency and accountability.
Key take-aways
Unified system for multiple materials: The Materials Matter Standard consolidates various materials under a single framework, streamlining processes and enhancing certification efficiency.
Measurable progress: The standard sets clear criteria and tools for measuring outcomes, guiding the industry towards science-based climate and nature targets.
Consumer awareness: The new certification mark, Materials Matter Certified, aims to become a recognized symbol for sustainable choices in fashion and textiles.
Regulatory alignment: Emphasizing transparency and sustainability, the standard helps brands meet regulatory demands for environmental and social impact reporting.
Practice-based and outcome-based criteria: It includes criteria to measure and acknowledge compliance, aiding brands and retailers in communicating about certified materials.
Transition period: The transition to the unified standard will be optional initially, becoming mandatory by mid-2026.
The Materials Matter Standard aligns with several existing certifications to create a unified and cohesive framework. These include:
- Global Recycled Standard (GRS)
- Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)
- Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)
- Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS)
- Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS)
- Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
Adding sustainable practices of MMCF production.
Beyond Certification:
A holistic approach to supply chain transparency
Certifications play a crucial role in advancing transparency within the textile industry, but they are not a comprehensive solution. While they focus on specific criteria such as material safety, organic content, and labor practices, they often fail to address the full complexity of a supply chain’s environmental and social impact. For example, they may overlook important factors like microplastic shedding, water-use efficiency, or the carbon footprint from transportation and logistics. This limited scope can create blind spots in sustainability strategies, as key issues fall outside the certification’s criteria. Furthermore, certifications typically rely on fixed audits, which may not capture dynamic changes in the supply chain. Suppliers can inadvertently—or sometimes deliberately—deviate from certified practices between audits, and without continuous monitoring, brands may rely on outdated or incomplete data, undermining their transparency goals.
- Expanding beyond standard certifications
Brands need a holistic approach to supply chain oversight. Tools like letters of conformity can complement certifications by showcasing specific supplier practices, such as water-saving technologies or ethical standards, but must be rigorously validated to prevent misinformation. Technologies like blockchain and real-time monitoring can enhance traceability and address gaps left by traditional certifications. - Challenges for smaller suppliers
Certification processes are costly and resource-intensive, often excluding smaller suppliers despite their sustainable practices. To foster inclusivity, brands should offer financial and technical support, form partnerships, or adopt alternative validation methods to help these suppliers demonstrate their efforts, promoting accountability and equity. - Evolving certification standards
Certifications must broaden their scope to address carbon emissions, circularity, and emerging technologies while becoming more efficient to reduce costs. By combining certifications with advanced tools, partnerships, and support for smaller suppliers, brands can create a more inclusive and impactful sustainability framework.
What are the key steps in the third-party
process for the textile supply chain?
Third-party certification in the textile industry involves rigorous, multi-step verification across the supply chain, ensuring compliance with various standards at multiple certification levels, from raw materials to finished products.
The certification process often operates at multiple levels within the supply chain. For example, it may begin with verifying raw material sourcing—ensuring that cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers are responsibly harvested or produced. It then extends to manufacturing, where third-party audits evaluate the adherence of factories to criteria like waste management, chemical use, and energy consumption. Finally, certification ensures that finished products, ready for consumers, reflect these sustainable practices.
What are third party companies providing independent audits and certifications for various sustainability and quality standards?
Various certification bodies conduct vital audits and grant certifications to ensure sustainability standards are met within the textile industry. These organizations are instrumental in guiding brands and manufacturers through intricate regulatory requirements while upholding ethical and environmental principles. By verifying that products meet criteria for safety, ethical production, and eco-friendliness, these certifiers promote greater transparency and accountability across the textile supply chain. Below is an overview of some of the most widely recognized certification bodies:
Control Union
Role: Focused on sustainability and supply chain certifications, particularly in organic, recycled, and fair-trade textiles.
Services: Offers traceability and verification services, working closely with brands to ensure responsible sourcing, ethical labor practices, and environmental compliance across global supply chain.
SGS
(Société Générale de Surveillance)
Role: A leading global provider of testing, inspection, and certification, especially for sustainability in textiles.
Services: Provides product quality and safety testing, chemical compliance (RSLs), and traceability audits, supporting eco-friendly and socially responsible manufacturing.
Ecocert
Role: Known for organic and fair-trade certifications, promoting sustainable sourcing in textiles and cosmetics.
Services: Offers eco-friendly manufacturing certification and biodegradability testing, promoting transparency and ethical production.
Intertek
Role: Specializes in quality, safety, and sustainability testing across textile supply chains.
Services: Conducts physical testing, performance assessments, social audits, and life-cycle analyses to help brands ensure safe, sustainable products.
Bureau Veritas
Role: Provides inspection and certification for social, environmental, and safety standards in textiles.
Services: Offers testing for flammability and chemical safety, traceability solutions, and sustainability training, supporting a transparent and responsible supply chain.
How to certify a product as sustainable
Step 1
Select a Certification Standard: Identify a sustainability standard (e.g., GOTS, OEKO-TEX, Cradle to Cradle) that aligns with your product’s environmental and social goals.
Step 2
Prepare Supply Chain: Ensure that raw materials, production processes, and suppliers adhere to the specific requirements of the chosen certification.
Step 3
Engage a Certification Body: Engage a recognized certification body (e.g., Control Union, SGS) to conduct the necessary compliance audits.
Step 4
Complete Audits and Inspections: Facilitate thorough inspections, testing, and documentation reviews to verify compliance with certification standards.
Step 5
Maintain Compliance: Regularly monitor operations and implement improvements to maintain certification standards for renewals and re-certifications.
Deep Dive:
How are biodegradable textiles tested & certified?
As the demand for sustainable alternatives in the textile industry grows, biodegradable synthetic textiles are becoming an essential solution. These materials are designed to degrade naturally without releasing harmful microplastics. To validate their environmental compatibility, certification processes assess their biodegradability under specific conditions such as air, soil, marine, water, and wastewater systems. Certifications for biodegradable synthetic textiles assure consumers and industries that these materials are environmentally safe and can decompose under specified conditions. With testing and validation by trusted bodies, these certifications promote the adoption of sustainable textiles while addressing the global need to reduce plastic pollution and microplastic waste. These certifications are pivotal for ensuring the performance and sustainability of such textiles, relying on standardized testing protocols of ASTM International Standards or ISO (International Organization for Standardization) Standards.
|
|
ASTM International Standards or |
 |
ISO Standards (International Organization for Standardization) |
 |
 |
 |
ASTM D5511-18 & ISO 15985
Anaerobic biodegradability under high solids
Evaluates anaerobic biodegradability under high-solids conditions, such as in anaerobic digesters or landfills. Frequently used to assess the decomposition of plastics in oxygen-deprived environments.
ASTM D5988 & ISO 17556
Aerobic biodegradability in soil
Determines aerobic biodegradability of plastics in soil systems. Helps verify material suitability for natural soil disposal.
ASTM D6691-17
Aerobic biodegradation in marine environments
Tests biodegradability in marine environments using a microbial consortium or natural seawater inoculum. Critical for evaluating materials that may enter aquatic or oceanic systems.
ASTM D5210-92
Anaerobic biodegradation in wastewater
Assesses anaerobic biodegradability in municipal sewage sludge. Useful for analyzing material breakdown in wastewater treatment plants.
ISO 14851
Aerobic biodegradability in water through oxygen demand
Measures the ultimate aerobic biodegradability in an aqueous medium through oxygen demand. Widely applied to biodegradable plastics intended for water environments.
Leading the way:
VAUDE setting own sustainability standards
The VAUDE GREEN SHAPE initiative is a sustainability program by the German outdoor brand VAUDE, aimed at reinforcing their dedication to environmental and social responsibility. This program ensures that the brand's products adhere to strict sustainability criteria throughout their entire lifecycle—from material sourcing to the finished product. As part of VAUDE’s overarching commitment to sustainability and its ambition to achieve climate neutrality, GREEN SHAPE promotes environmental stewardship while inspiring other outdoor industry companies to embrace sustainable practices.
Purpose
The GREEN SHAPE initiative aims to produce eco-friendly and socially responsible products while minimizing environmental impact and upholding ethical manufacturing practices. This program embodies VAUDE's commitment to integrating sustainability into its core brand values. The initiative ensures all products meet transparent criteria, focusing on reducing CO2 emissions, utilizing sustainable materials like recycled fibers, supporting fair labor practices, and minimizing their overall environmental footprint.
Criteria
Products under the GREEN SHAPE initiative must comply with recognized certifications such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), OEKO-TEX® Standard 100, and Fair Wear Foundation, guaranteeing adherence to rigorous social and environmental standards. Additionally, these products are required to meet VAUDE’s internal sustainability benchmarks.
Future Evolution
VAUDE plans to broaden the reach of GREEN SHAPE by enhancing product sustainability, increasing resource efficiency, and further lowering carbon emissions. The brand is committed to fostering new partnerships, improving transparency, and driving innovation in sustainable design and production methods.
Dos & Don'ts
Certification & Communication
- Be Clear and Specific: Use specific terms for materials and sustainability standards, avoiding vague descriptors like “green,” “eco-friendly,” or “ethical” that lack clear definitions.
- Back up Claims with Verifiable Data: Use measurable metrics, such as “reduces emissions by X%,” supported by robust environmental life cycle assessments to substantiate your statements.
- Stay Ahead of Regulations: Keep up-to-date with upcoming legislation on sustainability and correct usage of claims to ensure compliance and preparedness.
- Demand Documentation: Request certifications, compliance records, and test results from suppliers to verify their claims.
- Build Strong Supplier Relationships: Develop trust and open communication with suppliers to gain deeper insights into their sustainability practices.
- Insist on Transparency: Follow up on vague or incomplete answers to ensure suppliers demonstrate clear and credible commitments.
Further Questions & Deep Dive
1. How do the GRS and RCS recycling standards differ in their requirements and scope?
The Recycled Claim Standard verifies the percentage of recycled material in a product by tracing it throughout the supply chain. In contrast, the Global Recycled Standard goes further, encompassing not only recycled content verification but also criteria for chemical management, environmental sustainability, and social responsibility.
 |
 |
|
| Chemical Management | Enforces strict guidelines on safe chemical usage to reduce environmental impact. |
No specific restrictions on chemicals; only certifies recycled content in the final product. |
| Environmental Management | Required such as emission control and waste reduction; |
Not included in the criteria |
| Social Responsibility | Required such as fair wages, safe working conditions) |
Not included in the criteria |
| Example: Textile Manufacturer using recycled polyester | A company with GRS certification not only verifies recycled polyester content but also adheres to safe chemical usage in its dyeing processes, follows environmental management practices to reduce its carbon footprint, and ensures that labor conditions meet fair-trade standards. |
A company with RCS certification can claim that its textile products, such as shirts or jackets, contain a specific percentage of recycled polyester. However, it has no additional environmental or social commitments under RCS. |
If you want to learn more about recycling, you find more information in our previous focus topic.
2. What is the difference between yarn-level and material-level sustainability certifications?
Yarn-level certification verifies recycled content at the yarn stage only, while material-level certification covers the entire supply chain to ensure comprehensive sustainable practices.
 |
Yarn-Level CertificationThis certification applies only to the yarn or fiber stage, verifying that the yarn, such as recycled polyester, meets sustainability criteria (e.g., recycled content from post-consumer plastics). Example: A recycled polyester yarn certified at this level confirms recycled content but does not cover later stages like dyeing or garment manufacturing. |
 |
Material-Level CertificationThis certification covers the entire production process, from yarn through to finished fabric or product, ensuring that each stage meets sustainability standards, including safe chemical use, environmental practices, and social responsibility. Example: A material-level certification like the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) would confirm that recycled polyester yarn and every stage of production, including dyeing and assembly, meets comprehensive sustainability criteria. |
3. What is the difference between a Scope and a Transaction Certificate?
The difference between a Scope Certificate (SC) and a Transaction Certificate (TC) lies in what each certificate verifies within the supply chain.
- Scope Certificate (SC): This certificate verifies that a company or facility meets specific sustainability standards (e.g., GRS, RCS) and confirms that it is authorized to process or produce certified materials. Essentially, it certifies that a company is approved to handle certified materials but does not track individual shipments.
- Transaction Certificate (TC): This certificate is issued for individual shipments of certified goods, confirming that a specific batch or shipment contains certified materials. A TC provides traceability, showing that certified materials were used and correctly labeled at each stage in the supply chain, from production to the final buyer.
For brands, TCs are more important than SCs for verifying sustainability claims, as TCs provide detailed traceability for each shipment. While SCs establish a facility’s eligibility to handle certified materials, TCs are essential for brands to authenticate and communicate the sustainability of each product to consumers.
4. What challenges do brands face in obtaining Transaction Certificates from fabric suppliers and in meeting requests from certification bodies?
- Complexity of Supply Chains: Tracking and certifying materials is a complex task for brands that collaborate with multiple suppliers across various regions. The textile industry's structure, with only a few vertically integrated mills, heavily relies on subcontracting. Many suppliers lack robust systems to issue Transaction Certificates (TCs) efficiently, particularly when managing demands from multiple clients.
- Administrative Load: Processing TCs for every shipment involves meticulous documentation, creating significant workload. Smaller suppliers often lack the resources to manage frequent requests from multiple brands.
- Cost of Certification: Obtaining TCs requires third-party verification, adding financial strain. Suppliers may resist absorbing these costs, especially if brands do not compensate them.
- Limited Capacity of Certification Bodies: The high demand for certification can overwhelm certifying bodies, causing delays in issuing TCs and disrupting supply chains.
- Concerns over Confidentiality: Suppliers may hesitate to share detailed supply chain information, fearing exposure of proprietary data, while brands demand transparency to substantiate claims.
- Variation in Standards: Different brands often require varied certifications, creating complexity for suppliers who may not meet all requirements. This variation complicates TC issuance for multi-brand suppliers.
Recommendations for manufacturers
ZDHC
Purpose: The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals initiative aims to eliminate harmful chemicals from textile, apparel, and footwear supply chains. Through tools like the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) and Wastewater Guidelines, it sets clear standards for chemical restrictions and pollutant limits. ZDHC promotes safer chemical management to protect workers, consumers, and the environment while enhancing transparency and sustainability.
Coverage: ZDHC is not a certification program but works alongside systems like bluesign®, OEKO-TEX STeP, and GOTS. It integrates its standards into these frameworks to encourage sustainable practices across supply chains.
Bluesign
Purpose: The Bluesign SYSTEM provides a comprehensive solution for chemical suppliers, textile producers, and brands, emphasizing safe chemical use and sustainable practices throughout the supply chain. It enhances workplace safety, minimizes environmental impact, and drives continuous improvement in environmental performance. Bluesign® partners commit to stringent safety protocols and responsible resource management.
Coverage: The Bluesign SYSTEM encompasses the entire textile and leather supply chain, spanning from raw chemical inputs to finished consumer products. Its reach includes chemical suppliers, manufacturers, and brands, ensuring sustainability at every stage.
Higg Index – vFEM
Purpose: The Higg Verified Facility Environmental Module (vFEM) evaluates and verifies a facility's environmental performance, focusing on metrics such as energy consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, water usage, and waste management. Facilities begin with a self-assessment, which is then validated by an independent third-party to ensure data accuracy.
Coverage: The vFEM process relies on verification conducted by approved third-party verifiers certified by Cascale, the governing body of the Higg Index (formerly SAC). This certification ensures a consistent and standardized verification process. Once verified, the results are shared with brands, enabling them to evaluate the facility’s environmental performance effectively.
REACH Compliance
REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) is an EU regulation designed to ensure the safe use of chemicals across supply chains. It safeguards human health and the environment by mandating that companies assess and manage risks associated with the chemical substances in their products. Compliance with REACH is compulsory for all companies manufacturing, importing, or supplying chemicals within the EU market.
Checklists
- Brands: key questions to ask suppliers for sustainable product certification
- Manufacturers: key questions for sustainable certification and standards
Sources:
https://textileexchange.org/knowledge-center/documents/materials-matter-standard-pilot-version/
https://www.ohanapublicaffairs.eu/the-blog/
https://www.carbonfact.com/blog/policy/eu-regulations-for-textile-brands
https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2024/05/Project-plan-for-the-unified-standard.pdf
https://pefapparelandfootwear.eu/
https://www.textilestandards.com/
https://www.dincertco.de/din-certco/de/
All rights reserved.
© 2024 Anna Schuster, Sustainable Fashion Designer, Researcher & Futurist
© 2024 Astrid Schlüchter, Senior Communication Manager at Performance Days
PERFORMANCE DAYS® functional fabric fair
Produced by Design & Development GmbH Textile Consult
