The Trend Forum Fabrics

"Evolution and Revolution- From membranes to the Carbon story"

Troubled times pose fundamental questions: Is it better to evolve or to revolutionize? Evolution involves the improvement of existing products without making significant changes whereas a revolution entails radical change. This year’s Focus Topic therefore takes an in-depth look at the issue of “Evolution and Revolution: From Membranes to Carbon Story”. True to this motto, the jury will be taking a close look at exciting membrane alternatives that this fall has to offer, now that the use of PFAS has been permanently banned as of February 2023. Manufacturers are showcasing some great examples, such as electro-spun ion-conductive polymer membranes, which have grown significantly in importance since the PFC ban. In general, (poly) olefins have become a popular replacement for microporous membranes, while hydrophilic systems offer better permeability. Additionally, solvent-free options are available for PU membranes. Furthermore, manufacturers are making great advances in the use of non-hazardous chemicals on polyamides and in bio-based membranes. The debate over whether to prioritize waterproofing over breathability remains key, as no universal measurement scale is available to all. When we talk about a low carbon footprint, this ranges from fibers derived from regenerative agriculture to fibers that use pre-sequestered carbon and are applied to synthetic yarns.

The large selection of bio-based spandex is particularly striking for the F/W 2025/26 season, as well as combinations of bio-based spandex with bio-based nylon and various recycled new concepts, among them recycled polyester with recycled spandex. The future sees more manufacturers switching to 100 percent recycled variants, a further sign that the trend will continue to focus on mono-materials to ensure a more simple recycling process in the end. Conventional spandex is no longer used at all by most manufacturers; in general, the jury is considering allowing only recycled variants. For the winter season, the industry is presenting great Tencel blends, which provide not only a cooling effect, but also a warming effect. There are also many natural fibers such as Merino, wool blends or Cocona. Something else to get excited about are the fabulous, versatile and often innovative structures and knit constructions on show from many manufacturers. Further highlights: The filament yarn Naja, Econyl, climate neutral examples from HeiQ as well as Fibre-2-fibre recycling from fabric leftovers, various vegan alternatives that are especially antibacterial and skin-friendly and natural variants of brrr with a climate-regulating effect.

The midlayer segment has a very well balanced look to it. In addition to a variety of polyester qualities, such as with recycled spandex, Seawool, polyamide or recycled car tires, there are lots of great natural fibers on view. Among them wool blends with spandex or polyamide, Tencel cotton blends and a brand new wool blend with yak content. Further highlights: a lyocell blend with polyamide, recycled cotton with polyester.

Sherpa fleeces and a range of recycled wools are on show in a trendy 80s grunge look. These are accompanied by classic softshell concepts made of polyamide or polyester, both as recycled variants, often with a bio-based membrane on the inner side. The focus here is on high abrasion resistance and anti-pilling effects. Further highlights: Wool looks with membrane, technical spacer concepts, polyfibers with renewable membranes, classic softshells with highloft, sherpa fleeces in many great variants, recycled wool looks or storm fleeces.

Here, too, it is clear that manufacturers are striving to find sensible and, above all, sustainably produced alternatives to membranes. One possibility on offer is the electro-spinning process. This is considered an efficient method for the direct and continuous production of nanofibers. The electro-spinning process is relatively simple and can be used to produce polymer nanofibers for almost all polymer solutions, melts, emulsions and suspensions with sufficient viscosity. Further highlights: mono-component fabrics, a microporous membrane variant from BenQ, recycled PU or even membranes made from polypropylene (from Flying Tex for example), as well as a microporous membrane variant from Xpore. The proprietary membrane, adhesive and lamination technologies are free of PFCs and solvents.

2-LAYER
The jury was in agreement with the industry apparently increasingly losing interest in innovative 2-layer concepts, with hardly any innovation visible for the winter season. Mono-components were available as carbon capture variants or from recycled fabric waste. Nonetheless, Tencel with bio-based membrane from nylon, polypropylene membrane, polyester from fabric waste, electro-spun or ion-conductive polymer membranes all offer good opportunities for high-performance technologies. 

Here, too, the jury was unanimous: the category had little innovation to offer, possibly because manufacturers already have extremely lightweight examples in their range to date. The last few years are living proof of the great “lightweight” fabrics available with extremely low weight. The spectrum ranges from post-consumer recycled polyester, a super-light Cordura variant (40 DIN; 54 grams), classic cotton fabrics with certified down fillings to a new material from Pertex made of 100 percent nylon and processed without coating or elastane.

The shirts segment showcases a wide mix of winter looks, with small and large checks, flat structures, partly woven or seersucker qualities, setting the tone. No other category so clearly reflects the range of great, new and sustainable fibers currently available on the market. Fabrics made from old car tires, CO2-neutral, from fabric waste all the way to Seawool round off the picture. This is supplemented with natural fibers such as Tencel, Merino, cotton or Cocona. Shin Kong, for example, excels with a mechanical stretch variant without ripstop.

The pants segment presents itself with a wide range of casual fabrics ideal for outdoor use. Corduroy and denim highlight the classic look, and are well matched with jaquards made of econyl and polymer fibers. As with shirts, manufacturers are also increasingly turning to fabrics made from old fishing nets or from old car tires. Additionally, there is an increased use of graphene, an innovative material consisting of a single layer of carbon atoms. The composition and the molecular structure of graphene provide a number of special properties, which is why it is often referred to as a “miracle material”.