THE PERFORMANCE FORUM FABRICS

October 2023

Each season, the PERFORMANCE FORUM is carefully selected by a jury of experts from universities apparel brands, purchasing teams and fabric technologists from across the industry. Check out the 100% sustainable trend fabrics below and the accessories and special stories if you are interested.

 

FOCUS TOPIC

"Evolution and Revolution- From membranes to the Carbon story"

Troubled times pose fundamental questions: Is it better to evolve or to revolutionize? Evolution involves the improvement of existing products without making significant changes whereas a revolution entails radical change. This year’s Focus Topic therefore takes an in-depth look at the issue of “Evolution and Revolution: From Membranes to Carbon Story”. True to this motto, the jury will be taking a close look at exciting membrane alternatives that this fall has to offer, now that the use of PFAS has been permanently banned as of February 2023. Manufacturers are showcasing some great examples, such as electro-spun ion-conductive polymer membranes, which have grown significantly in importance since the PFC ban. In general, (poly) olefins have become a popular replacement for microporous membranes, while hydrophilic systems offer better permeability. Additionally, solvent-free options are available for PU membranes. Furthermore, manufacturers are making great advances in the use of non-hazardous chemicals on polyamides and in bio-based membranes. The debate over whether to prioritize waterproofing over breathability remains key, as no universal measurement scale is available to all. When we talk about a low carbon footprint, this ranges from fibers derived from regenerative agriculture to fibers that use pre-sequestered carbon and are applied to synthetic yarns.

Long Advance

Flying Textile

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Hwa Fune

Flying Textile

Universal Textile Co., Ltd.

Long Advance

Carol

Long Advance

Paltex

Flying Textile

Xpore

Sympatex

Bristex

Chia Her

Raco Textile Corporation

FuRui

Synnix

Flying Textile

Li Peng

Honmyue

Shin Han

Men-Chuen

N-Stars Fashion

HeiQ

Trueway

Omniteksas

Sapphire

Baselayer

The large selection of bio-based spandex is particularly striking for the F/W 2025/26 season, as well as combinations of bio-based spandex with bio-based nylon and various recycled new concepts, among them recycled polyester with recycled spandex. The future sees more manufacturers switching to 100 percent recycled variants, a further sign that the trend will continue to focus on mono-materials to ensure a more simple recycling process in the end. Conventional spandex is no longer used at all by most manufacturers; in general, the jury is considering allowing only recycled variants. For the winter season, the industry is presenting great Tencel blends, which provide not only a cooling effect, but also a warming effect. There are also many natural fibers such as Merino, wool blends or Cocona. Something else to get excited about are the fabulous, versatile and often innovative structures and knit constructions on show from many manufacturers. Further highlights: The filament yarn Naja, Econyl, climate neutral examples from HeiQ as well as Fibre-2-fibre recycling from fabric leftovers, various vegan alternatives that are especially antibacterial and skin-friendly and natural variants of brrr with a climate-regulating effect.

Thygesen & Birk

Venitra Industrial Group

Venitra Industrial Group

Filatura San Vitale

Evertex

Fieratex

Sidonios

Ray-Fabrics

Ray-Fabrics

HeiQ

brrrº

Omniteksas

Sidonios

Texxar

Ray-Fabrics

Tepar Tekstil

OURTEK COMPANY LIMITED

Teijin Frontier

Polartec

Hyosung

Axroma

Axroma

Yu Yuang

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

Carvico

Pontetorto

Penn Textile Solutions

LMA

 

Additional fabrics recommended by our jury:

Tough Knitting

Sabrina Fashions

Woojoo

Tepar Tekstil

Rih Jan

Best Pacific

drirelease

OURTEK COMPANY LIMITED

HeiQ

M.i.t.i.

Erictex

Shiny Textile Co., Ltd

Sheico

Midlayer

The midlayer segment has a very well balanced look to it. In addition to a variety of polyester qualities, such as with recycled spandex, Seawool, polyamide or recycled car tires, there are lots of great natural fibers on view. Among them wool blends with spandex or polyamide, Tencel cotton blends and a brand new wool blend with yak content. Further highlights: a lyocell blend with polyamide, recycled cotton with polyester.

Pontetorto

H-One

Align

New Wide

Eclat

Tessile Fiorentina

Everest

Premiere Fashion

Eclat

Polartec

Polartec

Pontetorto

Gelintex

Tessile Fiorentina

Thygesen & Birk

Utenos

Thygesen & Birk

brrrº

H-One

H-One

M.i.t.i.

United Berry

Thygesen & Birk

Venitra Industrial Group

Lurdes Sampaio S.A.

Lurdes Sampaio S.A.

Tah Tong

Zeynar

 

Additional fabrics recommended by our jury:

Fieratex

iFabriX

A. Sampaio

H-One

Evertex

H-One

Lurdes Sampaio S.A.

Kingwhale

Softshell & Outer Midlayer

Sherpa fleeces and a range of recycled wools are on show in a trendy 80s grunge look. These are accompanied by classic softshell concepts made of polyamide or polyester, both as recycled variants, often with a bio-based membrane on the inner side. The focus here is on high abrasion resistance and anti-pilling effects. Further highlights: Wool looks with membrane, technical spacer concepts, polyfibers with renewable membranes, classic softshells with highloft, sherpa fleeces in many great variants, recycled wool looks or storm fleeces.

Montdor

Montdor

A. Sampaio

Tessile Fiorentina

Kunshan Sanchuan

MK international

Dern Lin Textile Co., Ltd.

drirelease

Trueway

Chia Her

Wisher

Singtex

Trans-Textil

Trueway

Pontetorto

Li Peng

Takihyo

Eclat

TEXAPEL S.p.A.

Premiere Fashion

TEXAPEL S.p.A.

Duksung Inco

TEXAPEL S.p.A.

Duksung Inco

2.5 & 3Layer

Here, too, it is clear that manufacturers are striving to find sensible and, above all, sustainably produced alternatives to membranes. One possibility on offer is the electro-spinning process. This is considered an efficient method for the direct and continuous production of nanofibers. The electro-spinning process is relatively simple and can be used to produce polymer nanofibers for almost all polymer solutions, melts, emulsions and suspensions with sufficient viscosity. Further highlights: mono-component fabrics, a microporous membrane variant from BenQ, recycled PU or even membranes made from polypropylene (from Flying Textile for example), as well as a microporous membrane variant from Xpore. The proprietary membrane, adhesive and lamination technologies are free of PFCs and solvents.

Bristex

Teijin Frontier

Best Pacific

Shin Han

Long Advance

Axroma

Hwa Fune

Long Advance

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Flying Textile

Dragon Times Accessory

Dragon Times Accessory

Sympatex

Paltex

Sympatex

Bristex

Flying Textile

Xpore

Xpore

Flying Tex

Carol

Modestex

Synnix

Onechang Material

Hi-Tex

Best Pacific

Flying Tex

Honmyue

2Layer

2-LAYER
The jury was in agreement with the industry apparently increasingly losing interest in innovative 2-layer concepts, with hardly any innovation visible for the winter season. Mono-components were available as carbon capture variants or from recycled fabric waste. Nonetheless, Tencel with bio-based membrane from nylon, polypropylene membrane, polyester from fabric waste, electro-spun or ion-conductive polymer membranes all offer good opportunities for high-performance technologies. 

Shin Han

Long Advance

Universal Textile Co., Ltd.

Everest

Long Advance

Liongtex Innovation

Achievetex

Carol

Wisher

Sympatex

Taiwan Functional Textiles

Onechang Material

Yuantex

FuRui

FuRui

Yuantex

Flying Textile

Everest

Erictex

Hwa Fune

WidePlus

Chia Her

Synnix

Flying Textile

Hoyu Textile

WidePlus

Silkytex

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Lightweight & Downproof

Here, too, the jury was unanimous: the category had little innovation to offer, possibly because manufacturers already have extremely lightweight examples in their range to date. The last few years are living proof of the great “lightweight” fabrics available with extremely low weight. The spectrum ranges from post-consumer recycled polyester, a super-light Cordura variant (40 DIN; 54 grams), classic cotton fabrics with certified down fillings to a new material from Pertex made of 100 percent nylon and processed without coating or elastane.

Green Threads

Takihyo

IdeaTex

Hemetex

Qtex

Balas Textile

Yuantex

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Hyperbola

Green Threads

Qtex

Onechang Material

Plptex

Shin Han

Plptex

Silkytex

Sofileta

Erictex

Onechang Material

Green Threads

Synnix

Domiles

Synnix

Takihyo

Yesung Textile Co., Ltd.

Tiara

Tah Tong

Takihyo

Shirts

The shirts segment showcases a wide mix of winter looks, with small and large checks, flat structures, partly woven or seersucker qualities, setting the tone. No other category so clearly reflects the range of great, new and sustainable fibers currently available on the market. Fabrics made from old car tires, CO2-neutral, from fabric waste all the way to Seawool round off the picture. This is supplemented with natural fibers such as Tencel, Merino, cotton or Cocona. Shin Kong, for example, excels with a mechanical stretch variant without ripstop.

IdeaTex

Burlington

Balas Textile

Raco Textile Corporation

Shinkong

Burlington

Uniquetex Int. Co., Ltd.

Hans Global

Burlington

Sunny Special

Achievetex

Everest

Suedwolle Group

N-Stars Fashion

Raco Textile Corporation

E. Boselli

FOV

ASF

Woojoo

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

Sitip

Burlington

Shin Han

BYR (Solucell)

brrrº

Uniquetex Int. Co., Ltd.

e.dye

Shinkong

Pants & Tights

The pants segment presents itself with a wide range of casual fabrics ideal for outdoor use. Corduroy and denim highlight the classic look, and are well matched with jaquards made of econyl and polymer fibers. As with shirts, manufacturers are also increasingly turning to fabrics made from old fishing nets or from old car tires. Additionally, there is an increased use of graphene, an innovative material consisting of a single layer of carbon atoms. The composition and the molecular structure of graphene provide a number of special properties, which is why it is often referred to as a “miracle material”.

IdeaTex

Plptex

Tiara

Wisher

Sofileta

FOV

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

Hemp Fortex

Hans Global

Paltex

Willy Schmitz / Becker Tuche

Domiles

Achievetex

Universal Textile Co., Ltd.

TAK - Agency & Consulting incorp. LINX Europe

WidePlus

Sofileta

Kbtex Warp Knitting Technology Co.,Ltd.

Montdor

Sabrina Fashions

Shiny Textile Co., Ltd

Wing Yue Textile Company Ltd.

Brugnoli

Ahyoung Hightex

Jersey Lomellina

Sitip

Carvico

Crowning

 

Additional fabrics recommended by our jury:

YJ Global CO. Ltd.

Luno Teks

Tiba Tricot

Liebaert

Montdor

Function Meets Fashion

It is hard to imagine the world of fashion without the “Bad Taste” trend movement, from “ugly sneakers“ to the baggy look with jogging pants, oversized shirts and leggings. Accordingly, fabric manufacturers have also recognized that eye-catching, daring color variations, combined with innovative, often elaborate structures, set the tone in the “fashion meets function” segment. This category shines with its great material combinations. Classic materials are integrated into the “Bad Taste” look. In addition, innovative combinations of patchwork 3-layer fabrics that are bonded are on show. Jerseys and outer fabrics come with exciting structures. The best example: a membrane in gold, combined with 3D surfaces.

Vichamptex