THE PERFORMANCE FORUM FABRICS

“The Journey to Carbon Neutrality”

Since the last edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in spring of 2022, the jury has been following a path as part of a roadmap of fiber and material experts towards the goal of CO₂ neutrality. In the “Focus Topic” category, coinciding with the upcoming winter edition, the green light to participate was exclusively given to fabric innovations that could certify initial values in CO₂ reduction for the submitted fiber innovations. In combination with the current Higg Index, the aim is to make it possible in the future to achieve a better assessment of the CO₂ balance in the production and development of new materials and fibers for the industry itself. Nonetheless, as in spring of this year, the new PERFORMANCE DAYS Focus Topic caused quite a stir. After all, how can the values of natural fibers such as wool or Tencel™ be compared with those of recycled polyester, bio-based nylon or recycled wool? How do you deal with the various qualities on the one hand and with different strengths on the other? And how important are such factors as the production site and production processes within this context? Still a long way ahead towards CO₂ neutrality! “We wish to enable our visitors to make the best decision in terms of material selection, but also in terms of CO₂ neutrality and ultimately also in terms of textile recyclability,” states Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS. The additional performance codes such as “CO₂ neutral” and “CO₂ reduced” are intended to make the approaches to CO₂ reduction visible also for the winter edition. 

In general, as mentioned previously, four separated categories should be distinguished to have a differentiated view on the CO2 emissions to be able to increase transparency and comparability: First, synthetic fibres with variants made of recycled polyester, recycled polyamide and polypropylene, saving up to 30-40% CO2 emissions. Second, the use of biobased synthetic fibres such as those made from castor oil is exciting as we see significant CO2 reductions. Work is also currently underway to produce biopolymers from plant waste (biomass) in the future. The third group are natural cellulosic based fibres such as Tencel™, hemp, organic cotton, Naia spun fibre or their recycled versions. In the fourth group we evaluated wool and recycled wool within one category.

The Baselayer segment is also full of surprises for winter 24/25 with many great sustainable fiber variants. Tencel™ blends are particularly well represented. These can be seen in numerous looks, color variations and in their extreme softness. Furthermore, Tencel™ boasts a lower CO₂ footprint in production than wool. Hemp comes in a blend with recycled polyester, and by doing so the natural fiber loses its “eco-touch”, giving way to a more rougher look. Organic cotton, cotton with seawool, or merino wool are also present along with ethically produced wool variants, mainly from Europe (RWS wool), as well as regenerative merino wool from ZQRX producers (Suedwolle Group). With the use of a regeneration index platform, producers can measure and improve how much they give back to the environment through their farming methods. We see the new use of bio-based spandex, such as Hyosung or recycled lycra. Nylon from post-consumer waste remains a trend, and is well matched by recycled poly-nylon and recycled Eco Q-Max Jaquard with 40 % Roica (Penn Textile Solutions). Waffel structures are returning to the baselayer segment. Soft pastel tones, nude optics, natural varieties, and white and black dominate in terms of color.

Never before has a category been so versatile and provided such diversity. It comes as no surprise that many innovations were awarded a “Jury Like” at the Forum. The varieties range from biodegradable nylon or recycled polyester to highly technical innovations – such as bio-based nylon, French terries, Tencel™ wool blends or Organic Cotton Terry. The exciting prints for the winter are particularly striking with their assortment of looks. Sweatshirt fabrics are in vogue whereas fleece is losing in importance. It is nice to see the development of anti-microplastic technologies, with manufacturers increasingly on the lookout for solutions that keep you warm, but also reduce the discharge of microplastics. Non-brushed fabric optics alternate with brushed material fibers. The industry is looking for environmentally friendly, green polyester alternatives. This is achieved by a biodegradable polyester yarn from NanYa (H-OneTex Co. Ltd.) with two brushed surface structures on the outer and inner sides. The material decomposes after use within months without leaving any residue behind.

In the classic softshell segment, as was already the case in spring, there was little innovation and therefore very few submissions on the manufacturer side. In addition to technical softshells such as power shields, evolution fleeces made of recycled polyester or outer midlayers made of softshell constructions in trendy waffle structures or shell construction provide for striking looks. Along with the honeycomb look, the use of graphene provides a particularly special surface. Bio-based polyamide is used as an environmentally friendly concept  at TransTextil in softshell laminates for outdoor and sportswear articles. Seaqual  fibers made of plastic derived from the sea, together with wool on the inner side of the fabric, lend the material a soft look.

 By 2025, the use of fluorocarbons will no longer be permitted, which is why brands and fiber manufacturers are increasingly turning to other membrane alternatives. The focus here is on developments that bring function to the fabric, yet refain from the use of chemical treatments. Many blended fabrics alternate in this category with recycled fibers, such as recycled polyamide or polyester, which finds its use as a hydrofile membrane. Fluorcarbons or PFC have been long known to be hazardous to both health and ecology. In addition to the impregnation of textiles, fluorcarbons are also required for the production of so-called PTFE oder ePTFE (expanded PTFE) membranes. But there are also alternatives that manage to refrain from the use of PTFE, which are partly monocomponent and yet highly breathable and functional. Flying Tex processes 100 % organic nylon chips made from castor oil, reducing the use of petroleum. Rayon, a semi-synthetic fiber made from naturally sourced regenerated cellulose such as wood and related agricultural products, has a soft texture, similar to cotton or linen, and is extremely soft in feel. Green Treads convinces with a variant made of waterproof 3-layer fabric made of 100 % recycled twisted polyamide with mechanical stretch. Sympatex presents “STX Brixen Sky”, a lightweight 3-ply performance laminate. The1st and 2nd layers are made from 100 % recycled PES. The material has a technical look and is ideal for fashion, athleisure or technical sportswear goods thanks to the miniripstop structure on the surface.

The new 2-Layer fabrics for Winter 2024/25 have a lot to offer in terms of beautiful lightweight fabric variations. The portfolio includes recycled polyester or recycled nylon, as well as many one component  fabrics made from recycled fabrics that focus on the issue of a textile circular economy. This entails producing new durable functional material from fabric residues and fabric waste. Recycled TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is extremely tear and abrasion resistant, keeps you warm and is yet breathable. Seawool alternates with other natural fibers which are more suited to summer use.

The lightweight segment sees the comback of glossy looks in classic black, but also in new, casual color combinations. In the dyeing process, attention is often paid to natural variants. Dyeing is in some cases with coffee or spinneret dyed. Beeswax is used to impregnate lightweight and downproof fabrics, not only providing a new surface structure but also for tear- and abrasion resistance. Recycled polyester often comes with all-over-prints, titanium offers a technical, modern look. Fabric treated with castor oil does not wrinkle, does not smell and is also ultralight.

Similar to spring, the trend towards fabrics of natural origin is also clearly evident here. Polyester, even in recycled form, is hardly seen in use. Fibers made of 100 % Organic Cotton, hemp and merino are dominant. Combinations of recycled wool with modal lend a soft touch and provide for warmth in winter. Many jerseys impress in a 3D look. Further highlights: The selection ranges from carbon capture yarn to plant-based finishes to ward off mosquitos or to combat unpleasant odors, which provide a pleasant sensation on the skin, and to brrr technologies or seersucker qualities from bio-based nylon.

Similar to spring, the trend towards fabrics of natural origin is also clearly evident here. Polyester, even in recycled form, is hardly seen in use. Fibers made of 100 % Organic Cotton, hemp and merino are dominant. Combinations of recycled wool with modal lend a soft touch and provide for warmth in winter. Many jerseys impress in a 3D look. Further highlights: The selection ranges from carbon capture yarn to plant-based finishes to ward off mosquitos or to combat unpleasant odors, which provide a pleasant sensation on the skin, and to brrr technologies or seersucker qualities from bio-based nylon.

The Lifestyle Category has been continued since the Winter 23/24 season under the name “Function Meets Fashion”, due to the fact that the fabrics from the activewear segment impressively show how sports fashion reflects the current zeitgeist. The submitted fabric innovations also reflect the zeitgeist for Winter 2024/25. Incredibly versatile and beautiful textures and constructions highlight this category. Jaquards in soft pastel shades meet the current zeitgeist of digital youngsters, accompanied by great sports style looks with extraordinary graphics.