THE PERFORMANCE FORUM FABRICS
March 2023
Each season, the PERFORMANCE FORUM is carefully selected by a jury of experts from universities apparel brands, purchasing teams and fabric technologists from across the industry. Check out the 100% sustainable trend fabrics below and the accessories and special stories if you are interested.
“The Journey to Carbon Neutrality”
In order to provide more transparency in the “jungle of fabrics”, manufacturers must state concrete values for CO2 savings in the “Focus Topic” category and also for the Higg Index. This data is intended to aid industry representatives in making ecologically sound decisions when selecting materials. In general, this year’s Focus Topics distinguish between three categories to help provide a more differentiated look at CO2 emissions in order to increase transparency and comparability:
Category 1: Synthetic fibers
This includes variants made of recycled polyester, recycled polyamide and polypropylene, which save up to 30-40% on CO2 emissions (compared to a classic fleece), virgin polyester boasts higher values than the recycled variants
Category 2: Cellulose fibers
This includes TencelTM, hemp, organic cotton, Naia-spun fibers or their recycled equivalents, natural fibers blended with cotton, Lyocells
TencelTM is CO2 neutral, but only in the undyed versions
Category 3: Animal fibers
This includes wool and recycled wool, RWS-certified, and wool blends with TencelTM
For the 2025 spring/summer season, the baselayer segment will showcase function in perfection on a higher level. The focus is on combinations of synthetic fibers with natural fabrics. However, the ratio of natural fabrics is generally very low with little hemp content visible in baselayers for summerwear. Nevertheless, it is noticeable that cotton fibers with a “cooling effect”, i.e. with a cooling function, such as those from Coolmax or brrr, set the tone. Blends of TencelTM, elastane and cotton are suitable, as are TencelTM/polyester blends. Further highlights: Wool blends with TencelTM, combinations of elastane, hemp and recycled polyester, and with the use of Refibra, the industry is contributing to the circular economy. Modal fabric appears in a new 3D structure and, as a chemically produced fiber with natural origins, ensures for especially high wearing comfort and a heightened feel-good factor, making it also ideal for baselayers in the yoga sector. Pastel shades are replaced by more summery colors for a more cheerful look.
The midlayer category clearly stands out in Spring/Summer 2025 with a variety of great innovations and fabric blends. Manufacturers can choose from a wide range of cotton fabrics in Summer 2025, some also blended with hemp or wool. A stretch fleece, made from a combination of high-tech nylon yarn and TencelTM on the inner side, opts for biodegradable nylon derived from old tires. The result is a fabric innovation from Pontetorto Spa, extremely soft to the touch and with extremely good performance qualities. The amount of post-consumer recycled nylon from BASF and carbon capture yarn has increased enormously. For the first time, nylon obtained from recycled car tires has been used in midlayers. Another noticeable factor is the new developments with regard to “fiber to fiber” in providing further support to the textile circular economy. With this in mind, more and more manufacturers are focusing on mono-component fibers. Blended fabrics are being reprocessed into mono-material – but often this development is at the expense of the technical properties and durability of a fabric.
In the classic softshell sector, manufacturers are increasingly focusing on new surface structures. The main focus is on jacquard weaves in a mélange look or on retro-reflective fabrics. Stormega is the name for a new technology that can produce a unique single-layer fabric. The new fabric from Singtex is made of 48% recycled polyester and 48% recycled S.Café polyester. The fabric is water-repellent, extremely durable, lightweight and also regulates body temperature. Stormega uncovers the fleece between two tightly woven pieces of fabric to prevent the loss of microfibers. Further highlights: recycled polyester from post-consumer fabric scraps, carbon capture yarn.
No less than three “Jury Likes” can be found in the 2.5/3-layer category. The jury was particularly impressed by the way in which new membrane technologies were used, such as Dimpora, made from 100% recycled polyamide or the Xpore fabric which is 100% nylon ocean waste recycle with whole new eco-friendly manufacturing process of the Xpore membrane. Jury Likes were given to a fabric from Flying Tex Co. Ltd., a manufacturer that has addressed the problem of leftover fishing nets in the ocean, spinning new yarn from the collected marine waste. A particularly striking feature is the matte surface of the solid material, which is deemed to be extremely waterproof and durable. Shin Han Industries presents a 2.5/3-layer fabric made from 100% polyester – a lightweight 3-layer fabric with a 7D membrane as the surface, made from recycled nylon. The same manufacturer also presents another 3-layer fabric made of 100% polyester as a lightweight, elastic nylon with an electro-spun membrane.
The new 2-layer fabrics for Spring/Summer 2025 offer plenty of beautiful and lightweight fabrics in outstanding quality. The portfolio includes carbon capture yarn, biodegradable polyester, partially water-repellent polypropylene, as well as recycled polyester types or bio-based nylons. JSRtex is increasingly turning to the use of substitute fuels and alternative secondary materials (incl. recycled materials) as well as the capture and utilization or storage of CO2 (Carbon Capture Utilization). In general, many manufacturers are seeking solutions on conserving energy and water in the production of fabrics, including Shin Han Industries with their 100% recycled polyester yarn that can be recycled at a low temperature. The combination of polyester with Airmem Colorshell is also new, making use of a micro-porous membrane technology. It is not only windproof, waterproof and oil-repellent, but also allows for excellent water vapor permeability so that the wearer stays dry and does not freeze.
The lightweight segment presents a variety of bio-based nylon items for the 2025 Spring/Summer season, often even castor oil-based. Recycled polyester fabrics alternate with exciting alternatives to recycled polyamide. Yet the fabrics are extremely lightweight – one innovation from Green Threads Inc.consists of 100% recycled polyamide. At an unbeatable 18 grams per square meter, the material is one of the lightest ripstop downproof qualities around. That’s also what makes it so special. Manufactured according to the latest technical standards, the fabric is made from 4 and 7 denier multi-fibers obtained from mechanically-recycled polyamide. The surface consists of a PFC-free, yet water-repellent layer. On the inside, a water-based acrylic coating is used, making the material resistant. The jury decided on a PERFORMANCE AWARD in this case.
Unfortunately, few innovative developments are visible in the area of shirts. The most striking features are the elaborate 3D structures alternating with small-scale structures. Recycled polyester fabrics provide a cooling factor for the wearer. Hemp, on the other hand, provides for durability, good performance and impresses increasingly with its soft feel, similar to cotton. Further highlights: Bio-based nylon with TencelTM, cotton, Biocell, pineapple fiber blends with TencelTM, Manila hemp or banana fibers. In Summer 2025, check patterns in all shapes, colors and variants celebrate a revival, partly in a cooler used look, piece- or yarn-dyed and brand new as a 4-piece dye.
Many recycled fabrics can be found in the pants segment. In addition to conventionally recycled fibers, manufacturers are increasingly turning to the use of new recycling methods. These include materials derived from old fishing nets or old car tires. Tire manufacturer Michelin is seeking a path to greater sustainability with its own production site for the processing of old tires. In cooperation with the company Enviro, Michelin plans to set up the first recycling plant of its kind worldwide.The planned site in the Chilean region of Antofagasta will recycle up to 30,000 tons of tires for earth-moving machines annually. This corresponds to almost 60% of tires discarded annually nationwide. Further highlights in this segment: Dry-Tex, recycled polyester, recycled polyamide and Ecovero.
A great selection of stylish fabrics can be found in this lifestyle category. The fact that many sporting goods manufacturers now also present at fashion shows highlights further the enormous range of exciting performance fabrics. The focus is on 100% RWS wool qualities, as well as on stylish imitation leather, satin or 100% recycled polyester. The fabrics are not only convincing because of their look and extravagant structure, but also due to the fact that many also pledge to regulate body temperature when worn. FuRui Textiles Co. Ltd. showcases an especially functional fabric in 100% polyester quality. It is ultra-light, extremely thin and heat-regulating, with polyurethane processed as the main component. 3D constructions provide for new looks in yoga studios or for urban outdoor models. The colored reflectors that provide for better visibility and fashionable accents are especially striking.
Durability, abrasion protection, tear resistance, elasticity, breathability, wearing comfort – workwear fabrics must essentially have high technical performance values. For the 2025 Spring/Summer season, the focus is once again increasingly on robust denim structures. Fire-resistant materials, including those made of modacrylic yarn or as blends are in focus, along with recycled Cordura and exciting blended weaves, such as those with cotton and recycled polyester (ratio 35/65). Graphene fabrics are waterproof, breathable and anti-static.
Above all, what stands out immediately in the shoes and bags segment for Summer 2025 are the new recycling processes. More manufacturers are opting for the use of recycled polypropylene or bio-based nylon. Polypropylene is a thermoplastic that is conventionally made from petroleum and used in a variety of everyday applications. It is not biodegradable, but can be widely recycled. The characteristics of PP are similar to those of PE (polyethylene) plastic. It is particularly suitable for the production of bags and other types of packaging. PP bags are also known as fleece bags. The material can be spun-dyed. Taiwan Axroma Technical Textile Co.Ltd. presents a fabric made of 50% PP and 50% recycled polypropylene. In the footwear sector, manufacturers are opting for recycled rubber or fibers from pineapple leaves. Also new is the recycling of industrial waste gases into new recycled yarn.