“The Journey to Carbon Neutrality”

In the “Focus Topic” category, material and fiber manufacturers who can demonstrate a reduced CO2 footprint from the spring/summer 2024 season onwards may participate. The event organizers and jury members wish to know specifically which strategies are deployed to reduce C02 emissions in production, which technologies contribute to this and how they are measured. Factors such as energy-saving measures, resource conservation, the use of sustainable materials, local production, CO2 offsetting in general, are also taken into consideration, along with other exciting technologies. Such approaches are made visible at the PERFORMANCE FORUM by means of new, additional Performance Codes such as “CO2-Neutral” and “CO2-Reduced“ or “Natural Fibers”.

In general, four different categories that guarantee lower CO2 emissions when applied can be distinguished: Synthetic fibers with variants made from recycled polyester, polyamide or polypropylene. Natural fibers such as Tencel, hemp, Naia spun fiber or recycled natural fiber variants. All fibers that refrain from the use of a chemical dyeing process, instead being spun dyed or with the use of dope dyed yarn. The fourth group is defined by those fibers that combine several variants – i.e. are dyed or recycled in an energy-saving manner or use natural fibers. 

The baselayer segment surprises with plenty of great sustainable fiber variants for the coming spring/summer 2024 season. The focus remains on natural fibers such as Tencel, organic cotton, organic wool from KTB, merino wool, hemp or silk – in the best case even as a recycled variant. Extremely fine Hemp stands out in particular, losing the often unavoidable “eco touch” due to its fineness whereas recycled polyester remains en vogue, often in combination with Tencel or integrated PCM. The PCM microcapsules can be spun into fibers (e.g. acrylic, viscose) or applied as a coating to a variety of materials such as wovens, knitwear, nonwovens or even foams with a thickness currently ranging from two to over five millimeters. They absorb body heat when a surplus is produced and return the excess heat when the body needs it, with the microclimate between the skin and the textile being influenced in the process.  What’s new is that many manufacturers are focusing on the reuse of fabric scraps or on recycling industrial waste accordingly, among them BASF, which specializes in recycling car tires. Coolmax Ecomade is opting for 30 percent wool content. Biodegradable polyamide is blended with Naia, Tencel comes in a recycled variant in combination with Polygiene to reduce odor. A new exciting recycled variant involves the recycling of ropes on which oysters are grown on farms in Taiwan in an according manner. 

Manufacturers will once again be spoilt for choice from spring/summer 2024 – the spectrum ranges from natural fibers such as organic cotton, cotton, merino blends, Tencel or hemp, to recycled polyester, in a blend with elastane. At the same time, the looks are extremely lightweight, 3D wool structures continue to be in trend, likewise for constructions in which the fabric removes excess heat during great exertion, thus providing for greater breathability. The fabric is lightweight and also quick-drying. Due to solution dying – color pigments are added to yarns during fiber production, making them indelible – the lightfast fibers are protected against UV rays and aging yellowing.

Alongside one or two component fabrics, recycled polyester also appears in a single component version. Otherwise, there are hardly any innovations with regard to the spring/summer 2024 season – though the use of recycled elastane is particularly new.

As early as winter 2023/24, against the backdrop of fluorocarbons being banned in 2025, many brands including fiber manufacturers were on the lookout for a new membrane alternative that made sense. Magnificent constructions have shown how fabric can be equipped with function without chemical treatment. Trending currently are mono-component fabrics, as well as materials made from fabric scraps. With STX Banff, Sympatex demonstrates how the “Closing the loop“ process can be used to create new fabrics from chemically recycled fabric scraps and other leftover materials. The material is ideal for sportswear or outdoor-wear collections. Graphene is being hailed as the new wonder material with the potential to revolutionize 3D printing. Also in the area of 2.5-3 layer fabrics, many manufacturers are turning to graphene prints. Graphene allows the fabric to be thermo-regulated. Not only when it’s windy, but also on cold days, the durable graphene fibers provide for optimal moisture transport. Sweat is transported outwards and heat is transferred, so that no heat build-up occurs.

The latest 2-layer fabrics for spring/summer 2024 offer plenty of beautiful and lightweight fabrics for the bike and running segments. The portfolio includes organic cotton, along with recycled polyester types or bio-based nylons. Texstart presents a particularly nice combination of bio-based nylon with a castor oil inner side. Fabric made from castor oil has many advantages; it doesn’t crease, is extremely sustainable, super lightweight and odor-free. Although made from a renewable source, the material is very durable and not prone to pilling - so no annoying fluff or build up of knots on the clothing. The material retains its beauty for a long time and still manages to look new after repeated washing. Toray presents a bio-based nylon fabric as a beautiful alternative for rain jackets that are soft to the touch. The portfolio is rounded off with recycled nylon from old fishing nets or a new alternative from Seawastex made from recycled nylon yarn from oyster farming.

The lightweight segment is particularly exciting for the spring/summer 2024 season – with ultra-light windbreakers in a matte look and a soft feel in demand, especially in the running sector. The repertoire ranges from organic-based nylon articles or recycled nylon 6.6 from Dry-tex, to downproof merino, organic wool or organic cotton fabrics. The trend continues with ultra-light, breathable yet thermally insulating fibers. Organic-based down items are also becoming increasingly more lightweight, such as those from Toray. At the same time, most manufacturers are paying attention to a pleasant feel whereas the shiny look is experience a disappearance.

As in winter trends, the trend towards fabrics of natural origin is clearly visible here too. Polyester, also in recycled form, is almost no longer in use. Fibers made from 100 percent organic cotton, hemp and merino dominate. The proportion of fabrics made from post-consumer recycling materials (PCR) is growing. This refers to recycled plastics from household or commercial waste, much of which is packaging. Blends of hemp and Tencel provide for a soft feel. Colors such as pale green, blue, sand or ocher highlight the natural look of natural and plant fibers. This is complimented by natural dyeing techniques that focus on the use of chlorophyll, indigo, campeachy wood, saffron, turmeric, alizarin and madder. Particularly eye-catching are the trendy warp knits, elastic or dimensionally stabile, with open or closed structures, fine or coarse. Lily stitching provides for an additional cool 3D look.

Many fabrics in the pants segment impress with a special look & feel and pleasant haptics. These are particularly ideal for summery multifunctional items, such as for mountain sports or running. Casual denim fabrics, e.g. made of hemp or recycled cotton, set the tone in summer. By coating the fabric with Tencel, manufacturers create a super-soft viscose feel while the material remains flexible. Newcomers include a special trouser fabric in cooperation with BASF, polyester with jojoba oil or Econyl with merino inners. Spun-dyed yarns from Meryl EcoDye are the sustainable option to achieve great color results and also to reduce energy consumption and save on costs. 

The Lifestyle Category has been continued under the name “Fashion meets Function” since the fall/winter 23/24 season. The fabrics from the activewear segment demonstrate impressively how sports fashion meets the current zeitgeist. Fabric innovations submitted for the spring/summer 2024 season also reflect the spirit of the times. The color palette alone sets trends – with shades ranging from pale green to lavender, grayish greens to bluer sea tones. These are complimented by the great surfaces of many natural combinations such as Tencel with polyamide. Shimmering and coarse corduroy looks alternate with coarse shirt fabrics in “lumberjack style”. Cool, stylish jerseys, some woven, are ideal for the trendy “Active Style” look. 3D constructions provide new looks in the yoga studio or for urban outdoor models. The colorful reflectors are especially eye-catching, providing for better visibility and fashionable accents. 

Durability, abrasion protection, tear resistance, elasticity, breathability, wearing comfort – workwear fabrics need to have high technical performance values. Compared to winter, the fabrics submitted for the spring/summer 2024 season offer very few innovations. Materials present themselves as robust without sacrificing any lightness or soft, supple feel. New recycled options from repeatedly recycled nylon to recycled polyester remain in trend. 

The focus in the Bags & Footwear segment is on robust fabrics that can be applied in the bag and shoe sector. It requires materials which stand up to the harshest weather conditions. The suppliers offer recycled PET, FSC-certified natural rubber and recycled rubber as sustainable and robust footwear options. Long-lasting products are possible with wovens with Cordura or recycled polypropylene. For water repellency, PFC-free DWRs as well as organic cottons with wax finishes are in the selection. Natural fibers can be found as suitable bag fabric options, e.g. abacell (from banana plants), canvas with natural dyes and organic cotton.

The focus in the Bags & Footwear segment is on robust fabrics that can be applied in the bag and shoe sector. It requires materials which stand up to the harshest weather conditions. The suppliers offer recycled PET, FSC-certified natural rubber and recycled rubber as sustainable and robust footwear options. Long-lasting products are possible with wovens with Cordura or recycled polypropylene. For water repellency, PFC-free DWRs as well as organic cottons with wax finishes are in the selection. Natural fibers can be found as suitable bag fabric options, e.g. abacell (from banana plants), canvas with natural dyes and organic cotton.