THE PERFORMANCE FORUM FABRICS

November 2022

Each season, the PERFORMANCE FORUM is carefully selected by a jury of experts from universities apparel brands, purchasing teams and fabric technologists from across the industry. Check out the 100% sustainable trend fabrics below and the accessories and special stories here.

 

FOCUS TOPIC

“The Journey to Carbon Neutrality”

Since the last edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS in spring of 2022, the jury has been following a path as part of a roadmap of fiber and material experts towards the goal of CO2 neutrality. In the Focus Topic category, coinciding with the upcoming winter edition, the green light to participate was exclusively given to fabric innovations that could certify initial values in CO2 reduction for the submitted fiber innovations. In combination with the current Higg Index, the aim is to make it possible in the future to achieve a better assessment of the CO2 balance in the production and development of new materials and fibers for the industry itself. Nonetheless, as in spring of this year, the new PERFORMANCE DAYS Focus Topic caused quite a stir. After all, how can the values of natural fibers such as wool or Tencel™ be compared with those of recycled polyester, bio-based nylon or recycled wool? How do you deal with the various qualities on the one hand and with different strengths on the other? And how important are such factors as the production site and production processes within this context? Still a long way ahead towards CO2 neutrality! We wish to enable our visitors to make the best decision in terms of material selection, but also in terms of CO2 neutrality and ultimately also in terms of textile recyclability, states Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS. The additional performance codes such as CO2 neutral and CO2 reduced are intended to make the approaches to CO2 reduction visible also for the winter edition. 

In general, as mentioned previously, four separated categories should be distinguished to have a differentiated view on the CO2 emissions to be able to increase transparency and comparability: First, synthetic fibres with variants made of recycled polyester, recycled polyamide and polypropylene, saving up to 30-40% CO2 emissions. Second, the use of biobased synthetic fibres such as those made from castor oil is exciting as we see significant CO2 reductions. Work is also currently underway to produce biopolymers from plant waste (biomass) in the future. The third group are natural cellulosic based fibres such as Tencel™, hemp, organic cotton, Naia spun fibre or their recycled versions. In the fourth group we evaluated wool and recycled wool within one category.

AX Materials

AX Materials

AX Materials

Sympatex

Nan Ya Plastics

Rapalloto

Axroma

New Wide

United Berry

FOV

FOV

Flying Textile

A. Sampaio

Tough Knitting

Fieratex

Suedwolle Group

Pontetorto

Tough Knitting

Honmyue

Nan Ya Plastics

Baichuan Resources Recycling

Premiere Fashion

Baichuan Resources Recycling

Fieratex

Payen- Esf

Payen- Esf

Axroma

Axroma

Baselayer

The Baselayer segment is also full of surprises for winter 24/25 with many great sustainable fiber variants. Tencel™ blends are particularly well represented. These can be seen in numerous looks, color variations and in their extreme softness. Furthermore, Tencel™ boasts a lower CO2 footprint in production than wool. Hemp comes in a blend with recycled polyester, and by doing so the natural fiber loses its eco-touch”, giving way to a more rougher look. Organic cotton, cotton with seawool, or merino wool are also present along with ethically produced wool variants, mainly from Europe (RWS wool), as well as regenerative merino wool from ZQRX producers (Suedwolle Group). With the use of a regeneration index platform, producers can measure and improve how much they give back to the environment through their farming methods. We see the new use of bio-based spandex, such as Hyosung or recycled lycra. Nylon from post-consumer waste remains a trend, and is well matched by recycled poly-nylon and recycled Eco Q-Max Jaquard with 40 % Roica (Penn Textile Solutions). Waffel structures are returning to the baselayer segment. Soft pastel tones, nude optics, natural varieties, and white and black dominate in terms of color.

 

Zeynar

Sidonios

brrrº

H-One

Sidonios

Chichampe

Hung's Fortune

Suedwolle Group

Schoeller GmbH & Co

Fieratex

Alto Milanese

Sidonios

Suedwolle Group

Omniteksas

Sabrina Fashions

3M Thinsulate & Scotchgard

Domiles

Li Peng

Shinkong

Penn Textile Solutions

Hyosung

drirelease

Align

Hyperbola

Omniteksas

Brugnoli

Singtex

Axroma

Midlayer

Never before has a category been so versatile and provided such diversity. It comes as no surprise that many innovations were awarded a Jury Like at the Forum. The varieties range from biodegradable nylon or recycled polyester to highly technical innovations – such as bio-based nylon, French terries, Tencel™ wool blends or Organic Cotton Terry. The exciting prints for the winter are particularly striking with their assortment of looks. Sweatshirt fabrics are in vogue whereas fleece is losing in importance. It is nice to see the development of anti-microplastic technologies, with manufacturers increasingly on the lookout for solutions that keep you warm, but also reduce the discharge of microplastics. Non-brushed fabric optics alternate with brushed material fibers. The industry is looking for environmentally friendly, green polyester alternatives. This is achieved by a biodegradable polyester yarn from NanYa (H-OneTex Co. Ltd.) with two brushed surface structures on the outer and inner sides. The material decomposes after use within months without leaving any residue behind.

Sitip

Derun

Cifra

NILIT - SENSIL

Pontetorto

Pontetorto

Omniteksas

Hemp Fortex

Utenos

Schoeller GmbH & Co

Utenos

Omniteksas

Pontetorto

Pontetorto

New Wide

Zeynar

BIHQ

H-One

Polartec

Sheico

Super Textile

H-One

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

Hung's Fortune

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Teijin Frontier

Softshell & Outer Midlayer

In the classic softshell segment, as was already the case in spring, there was little innovation and therefore very few submissions on the manufacturer side. In addition to technical softshells such as power shields, evolution fleeces made of recycled polyester or outer midlayers made of softshell constructions in trendy waffle structures or shell construction provide for striking looks. Along with the honeycomb look, the use of graphene provides a particularly special surface. Bio-based polyamide is used as an environmentally friendly concept  at TransTextil in softshell laminates for outdoor and sportswear articles. Seaqual  fibers made of plastic derived from the sea, together with wool on the inner side of the fabric, lend the material a soft look.

Polartec

Hyperbola

Wisher

Shanghai Jiuyu

Irabbit

DJIC

dimpora

Evertex

Polartec

Wisher

De Licacy

Wisher

Singtex

De Licacy

De Licacy

Singtex

De Licacy

Hyperbola

A. Sampaio

e.dye

Brugnoli

M.i.t.i.

Trans-Textil

Woojoo

TaeOh

JRC

JRC

Dry-tex

2.5 & 3Layer

 By 2025, the use of fluorocarbons will no longer be permitted, which is why brands and fiber manufacturers are increasingly turning to other membrane alternatives. The focus here is on developments that bring function to the fabric, yet refain from the use of chemical treatments. Many blended fabrics alternate in this category with recycled fibers, such as recycled polyamide or polyester, which finds its use as a hydrofile membrane. Fluorcarbons or PFC have been long known to be hazardous to both health and ecology. In addition to the impregnation of textiles, fluorcarbons are also required for the production of so-called PTFE oder ePTFE (expanded PTFE) membranes. But there are also alternatives that manage to refrain from the use of PTFE, which are partly monocomponent and yet highly breathable and functional. Flying Tex processes 100 % organic nylon chips made from castor oil, reducing the use of petroleum. Rayon, a semi-synthetic fiber made from naturally sourced regenerated cellulose such as wood and related agricultural products, has a soft texture, similar to cotton or linen, and is extremely soft in feel. Green Treads convinces with a variant made of waterproof 3-layer fabric made of 100 % recycled twisted polyamide with mechanical stretch. Sympatex presents STX Brixen Sky, a lightweight 3-ply performance laminate. The1st and 2nd layers are made from 100 % recycled PES. The material has a technical look and is ideal for fashion, athleisure or technical sportswear goods thanks to the miniripstop structure on the surface.

WidePlus

Sympatex

Sympatex

Shinkong

Li Peng

Singtex

Li Peng

e.dye

IdeaTex

Seojin

Flying Textile

Green Threads

Concordia

Qtex

Concordia

Trans-Textil

Carol

JRC

Flying Tex

WidePlus

Texet

ASF

IdeaTex

BenQ Materials Xpore

Flying Tex

Bristex

Alpex

TDI

2Layer

The new 2-Layer fabrics for Winter 2024/25 have a lot to offer in terms of beautiful lightweight fabric variations. The portfolio includes recycled polyester or recycled nylon, as well as many one component  fabrics made from recycled fabrics that focus on the issue of a textile circular economy. This entails producing new durable functional material from fabric residues and fabric waste. Recycled TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is extremely tear and abrasion resistant, keeps you warm and is yet breathable. Seawool alternates with other natural fibers which are more suited to summer use.

Domiles

Sympatex

Flying Tex

Shin Han

Baichuan Resources Recycling

Shin Han

Texet

TDI

Hans Global

Hi-Tex

Domiles

Flying Textile

Shanghai Jiuyu

J&B

Flying Textile

Long Advance

Long Advance

Taiwan Taffeta

Shin Han

Plptex

Itttai

Shanghai Jiuyu

Erictex

dimpora

Long Advance

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Long Advance

TDI

Lightweight & Downproof

The lightweight segment sees the comback of glossy looks in classic black, but also in new, casual color combinations. In the dyeing process, attention is often paid to natural variants. Dyeing is in some cases with coffee or spinneret dyed. Beeswax is used to impregnate lightweight and downproof fabrics, not only providing a new surface structure but also for tear- and abrasion resistance. Recycled polyester often comes with all-over-prints, titanium offers a technical, modern look. Fabric treated with castor oil does not wrinkle, does not smell and is also ultralight.

Alpex

Li Peng

Align

N-Stars Fashion

FOV

Green Threads

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Green Threads

Shin Han

Unitika

Green Threads

Alpex

Shin Han

Green Threads

Dry-tex

Texet

ECOSENSOR by AsahiKASEI

Qtex

Texstart Textile

Seojin

Texstart Textile

Plptex

Duksung Inco

Radici Yarn

Dry-tex

Texstart Textile

Dry-tex

IdeaTex

Shirts

Similar to spring, the trend towards fabrics of natural origin is also clearly evident here. Polyester, even in recycled form, is hardly seen in use. Fibers made of 100 % Organic Cotton, hemp and merino are dominant. Combinations of recycled wool with modal lend a soft touch and provide for warmth in winter. Many jerseys impress in a 3D look. Further highlights: The selection ranges from carbon capture yarn to plant-based finishes to ward off mosquitos or to combat unpleasant odors, which provide a pleasant sensation on the skin, and to brrr technologies or seersucker qualities from bio-based nylon.

Chia Her

SK Technical Fibers and Fabrics

Hemp Fortex

SK Technical Fibers and Fabrics

SK Technical Fibers and Fabrics

Bristex

Bristex

Chia Her

Merryson

ASF

Burlington

Hans Global

Jessia and Jean

De Licacy

MHTC

brrrº

brrrº

De Licacy

WidePlus

brrrº

Burlington

Everest

Everest

Right Sports Apparels

Rih Jan

MHTC

Ray-Fabrics

Brugnoli

Pants & Tights

Similar to spring, the trend towards fabrics of natural origin is also clearly evident here. Polyester, even in recycled form, is hardly seen in use. Fibers made of 100 % Organic Cotton, hemp and merino are dominant. Combinations of recycled wool with modal lend a soft touch and provide for warmth in winter. Many jerseys impress in a 3D look. Further highlights: The selection ranges from carbon capture yarn to plant-based finishes to ward off mosquitos or to combat unpleasant odors, which provide a pleasant sensation on the skin, and to brrr technologies or seersucker qualities from bio-based nylon.

IBQ

N-Stars Fashion

Dry-tex

IBQ

IBQ

Hyosung

Shafi Texcel

Chia Her

Taiwan Taffeta

Shafi Texcel

Shafi Texcel

Chia Her

Chia Her

Shanghai Jiuyu

Burlington

Payen- Esf

Ricamofil

Sidonios

Chichampe

Sidonios

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

M.i.t.i.

Brugnoli

Fieratex

JRC

Ray-Fabrics

Estilmar

Carvico

Function Meets Fashion

The Lifestyle Category has been continued since the Winter 23/24 season under the name Function Meets Fashion, due to the fact that the fabrics from the activewear segment impressively show how sports fashion reflects the current zeitgeist. The submitted fabric innovations also reflect the zeitgeist for Winter 2024/25. Incredibly versatile and beautiful textures and constructions highlight this category. Jaquards in soft pastel shades meet the current zeitgeist of digital youngsters, accompanied by great sports style looks with extraordinary graphics.

Qtex

Schoeller GmbH & Co

CHANTY Spitzenfabrik

TaeOh

Hyperbola

Texet

Liongtex Innovation

Tessile Fiorentina

Singtex

Texet

Jessia and Jean

BIHQ

Wisher

United Berry

Ricamofil

Ricamofil

Liongtex Innovation

Seojin

Cifra

Align

Estilmar

Everest

A. Sampaio

Honmyue

37.5 Technology / Cocona Labs.

Chia Her

Seojin